The first thing I do with those pinch nuts when they show up in a rocker arm set or an engine is to remove them and throw them away. The life of a basic polylock in virtually forever as long as the threads are good.
This is the B&M Launch Control kit complete with the solenoid, button, an inline fuse, a green indicator light, and a slick little shifter mount to hold the button.
Get In Line-Lock
Gavin Thorpe, Eugene, OR: I was wondering if you could tell me how a line-lock system works. I know it locks the front brakes, but that's about all I know. How do you install one and is it worth the time? If I did install one on my car, would I still be able to use my factory brakes to stop?
Jeff Smith: I have a feeling there are many entry-level enthusiasts who will benefit from your great question, Gavin. A line-lock system employs a high-quality solenoid that is plumbed into the high-pressure hydraulic front brake line between the master cylinder and where that line T's off to the two front brakes. The electrical solenoid is then wired to a momentary switch, usually placed on the shifter and sometimes on the steering wheel of some race cars.
To lock the front brakes, the driver pumps the brakes until he has created sufficient line pressure to hold the car in place. He then pushes the line-lock button, which engages the solenoid and blocks the return of brake fluid back to the master cylinder. Then the driver removes his foot from the brake pedal, relieving pressure on the rear brakes, yet the solenoid maintains the pressure applied to the front brakes. As long as the solenoid is engaged, the front brakes will be "locked." This allows the driver to perform his burnout while holding the car in the water box. To allow the car to roll out of the water box, all the driver has to do is release the button; the front brake pressure is relieved and the fluid returns to the master cylinder. The line-lock is especially useful in manual-transmission cars for holding them in the burnout box.
Until the line-lock button is pushed, it is completely transparent to the braking system, which means your factory brakes (either disc or drum) will operate exactly as the factory intended. For street/strip cars, the line-lock can also be used as a hill-holder for manual-transmission cars. After you stop on a hill with a stop sign or light, with your right foot still on the brake, hit the line-lock button and you can release the pressure on the brake pedal. The front brakes will hold the car on the hill until you bring the clutch out. Then just release the line-lock and drive off.
Several companies offer their versions of the line-lock, including B&M's Launch Control (PN 46076, $69.95, Summit Racing), Moroso's Anti-Roll kit (PN 44050, $98.95), and TCI's Roll Stop (PN 861700, $81.88). Most of the companies also sell just the solenoid by itself, if that's all you need. Installation is relatively simple but will require you to cut and double-flare at least one brake-line fitting and perhaps two. You will need a double-flaring tool, but they are easy to find at any good tool store or through Craftsman at your local Sears.
'Cc Quickies
Correct-o!Every wonder what we're talking about when we make fun of factory chalk marks? Here you go: a reproduction of the factory hood-latch adjustment X on a '69 Mustang we saw at the Mustang Roundup in Seattle. | 
'Cc Quickies
Most people know that careless welding can cause sheetmetal to warp, but did you know that it's also possible to warp your panels with careless grinding? Thanks to our firsthand knowledge, consider yourself warned! |
'Cc Quickies
Vinyl roofs hide a multitude of sins. This weak-looking joint where the roof and A-pillar come together had been filled at the factory by an ugly glop of seam sealer. Vinyl roofs MUST die. | |