ZZ520: The Ultimate Chevy 350 Crate Engine?

Edelbrock’s Victor Jr....        read full caption Edelbrock’s Victor Jr. single-plane intake (PN 2975) was chosen to maximize top-end power.

The engine ran best with a...        read full caption The engine ran best with a Speed Demon 850-cfm double-pumper carb on a Wilson 1-inch open spacer. Jetting was “square,” with No. 92s on all four corners. A 750 proved too restrictive.

GM’s 8-inch harmonic...        read full caption GM’s 8-inch harmonic damper (PN 12555879) prevents bad vibes.

ARP fasteners—including...        read full caption ARP fasteners—including a head bolt kit (PN 134-3601), a harmonic damper bolt kit (PN 134-2501), and an accessory bolt kit (PN 534-9801)—were needed to bolt everything together. Northern Auto Parts stocks the full ARP line, along with most of the other parts needed to build this “crate” engine from the short-block up.

GMPP’s ZZ4 partial engine...        read full caption GMPP’s ZZ4 partial engine (PN 12561723) includes a block (with four-bolt main caps on the center three journals); a forged one-piece rear main seal crank; main, rod, and cam bearings; powdered metal rods; rings; and LT1 high-silicon pistons with offset pressed pins. As delivered, GM’s short-block is really “short”—lots of parts are needed to make it a runner.

Milodon’s stock replacement...        read full caption Milodon’s stock replacement oil pan (PN 30702) fits most ’86-and-up small-block Chevy one-piece rear-main-seal blocks used in cars and trucks.

Previous ZZ engines had a...        read full caption Previous ZZ engines had a 0.620-inch pickup tube and screen, but the current GM ZZ4 oil pump (PN 12555283) takes a 0.742-inch–od pickup (PN 12550042). Westech fail-safed the tube by spot-welding it to the pump body (arrow). ARP’s all-steel driveshaft (PN 134-7901) spins the pump over.

This engine made its numbers...        read full caption This engine made its numbers with “just” a stock HEI distributor. PN 1104067’s advance curve is suitable for high-perf applications.

Comp’s Endure-X mechanical...        read full caption Comp’s Endure-X mechanical roller lifter (PN 888-16) has an extra oiling groove for low-rpm durability, and a heavy-duty inner-bearing race that distributes the load over a greater area. The 0.300-inch–taller body allows it to fit in late-model roller-cam blocks.

Comp’s 1.52:1 Pro Magnum...        read full caption Comp’s 1.52:1 Pro Magnum rockers (PN 1317-16) are 3 percent stronger than aluminum rocker arms, yet they are also 5 percent lighter over the valve tip than most aluminum rockers.

It seems that lately everybody thinks we should all be satisfied to make 400 hp on 92 octane with a Chevy 350. That’s great if you think 400 ponies is a lot of power. But the pace of development in cams, heads, and carbs has made it easy and affordable to go beyond that level of performance. For this project, we wanted to go way past it while still maintaining pump-gas and basic bolt-together parts compatibility. Our goal was 500 hp using off-the-shelf parts with no machine work required.

Here’s the basic recipe: a GM Performance Parts’ ZZ4 partial engine assembly, which comes with a forged crank, four-bolt-main caps, and high-silicon aluminum pistons for about $1,700. Then grab a Comp Cams Xtreme Energy mechanical roller cam, Air Flow Research’s superlative 195 Street Head, a tried-and-true Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake with a Speed Demon carb, an HEI, and 1-¾-inch headers and throw it all on the engine.

Assembling this engine isn’t a total slam dunk, however. The solid-roller cam we picked is big enough that piston-to-valve clearance needs to be checked, standard-length pushrods will probably be too short, and there’s potential for rocker-arm– to-valvespring retainer and retainer-to-valveguide or -seal interference. In short, everything has to be checked, and (if necessary) corrected.

In this case, Comp’s Xtreme Energy XR280R cam was slightly milder than the grind we originally intended to use (the next larger cam actually hit the factory pistons’ shallow valve notches). Comp Hi-Tech pushrods (PN 7994) were 0.050-inch longer than standard and were needed to achieve proper valvetrain geometry, and the AFR head’s supplied valvesprings required shims to achieve the necessary valvespring pressure. Because we ordered the wrong style cam for this late-model roller-style block (see caption), the front cam thrust-plate retainer boss required trimming to clear the early upper double-roller cam sprocket (which in turn was needed to mate with the early-style front cam nose on Comp’s mechanical roller cam).

Once bolted together, this engine liked to rev, and on top a 750-cfm carb was just too restrictive. The engine ended up making the best top-end power with a Speed Demon 850-cfm carb atop a Wilson Manifolds 1-inch open spacer. Once we switched to the larger carb, added the spacer, and dialed in 35 degrees of advance, the engine performed as we’d hoped, exceeding our 500hp goal by over 20 hp—522.9 ponies at 6,600 rpm, to be exact. GM’s stock HEI distributor was up to the job despite a 4-degree top-end retard; peak advance was actually somewhere around 39 degrees in the midrange, but the slight retard actually helps the engine make power upstairs.

Even with the big cam, the engine still made good torque, albeit at fairly high rpm. Torque production exceeded 400 lb-ft from 3,400-6,700 rpm, with the peak 454.2 lb-ft occurring at 5,200. But as you’d expect from a raspy motor, it only made 9 inches of vacuum at 930 rpm—not enough to operate power accessories without a vacuum pump.

In fact, getting this engine to run in a real car requires at least a 3,000-stall converter and 3.90:1 or steeper gears. With the required precision assembly checks (performed here by Westech), this approach isn’t for everyone. Yet it definitely is one viable solution for getting a quick and affordable 500-plus hp out of a pump-gas compatible, 350ci small-block. If you want to take the plunge, the required parts outlay is about $5,500, assuming you shop around for a friendly GM dealer, mail-order the hard parts, and do the assembly work yourself.