We started with a pair of used buckets purchased from Memory Lane Collector Car Dismantler. They're for a '66-'72 GM A-body, but the tips shown in the story apply to nearly any musclecar seat. Judging by the covers these were GTO units, but the frames are so similar to other Buick, Olds, and Pontiac units that they can be considered interchangeable for all but the most die-hard resto freak. We're putting 'em in an El Camino. This seat had been spray painted black and some plastic parts were missing. We started with a pair of used buckets purchased from Memory Lane Collector Car Dismantler It's hard to write a witty intro for this story. It's like, duh-seats get thrashed and you have to fix 'em. Companies like Original Parts Group are at the ready with all the parts you need to do the job, but it's scary to try and re-cover seats at home if the seats are really wasted. That's what we thought, until we started hanging out at Mike Ambrose Custom Interiors where they make stuff like this look really easy. Of course, it's always easier to just pay guys like Mike, but it'll be far cheaper if you can handle it yourself. Follow along to see how, then practice a lot on friends' seats before you try your own. OK, start ripping the sucker apart-but do it with tact. Make sure to take note of how stuff was attached and where all the clips and hog rings go. The plastic seat back comes off with four screws at the base and two screws under the seat-back button, which can be carefully pried out with a screwdriver. The chalky texture means these seatbacks are toast. OK, start ripping the sucker apart-but do it with tact. Make sure to take note of how stuf It's a no-brainer with a Phillips to pull off all the plastic trim and small chrome parts. Again keep track of what goes with what. It's a no-brainer with a Phillips to pull off all the plastic trim and small chrome parts. Ambrose told us that the seat tracks are a bit different than Chevy units because there isn't lock-wire going from one side of the seat track to the other. No big deal. Plenty of WD-40 and a hammer freed the sliders, which will need to move if you want to get to the bolts holding the slider to the seat base. The factory used welded blind nuts but expect them to be broken off. Ambrose told us that the seat tracks are a bit different than Chevy units because there is To separate the seatback from the base, begin by removing the two boots holding the slider. The two oval-shaped rubber bumpers (arrow) should also be removed. You'll want new ones from OPG. To separate the seatback from the base, begin by removing the two boots holding the slider The bracket that bolts the seat halves together will be revealed once you use your side-cutters (are we allowed to say dikes?) to clip the hog rings (half-circles of stiff wire) attaching the upholstery to the frames. Unbolt the brackets and remember which is right and left because they are different. The bracket that bolts the seat halves together will be revealed once you use your side-cu Go to town with the dikes and cut off all the hog rings (sounds like a dirty movie). We'll show the rest of the re-covering procedure on the base of the seat, but the basics apply to the seatback too-for that matter, they apply to nearly any musclecar seat. Go to town with the dikes and cut off all the hog rings (sounds like a dirty movie). We'll With the upholstery un-ringed from the perimeter of the seat base, pull the vinyl back far enough to get your fingers between the foam and cut the hog rings from what we'll call the main wire of the seat base. This wire is crucial to the integrity of the seat; it holds both the foam and the upholstery, provides tautness to the vinyl of the base, and locates the main pleat in the upholstery. With the upholstery un-ringed from the perimeter of the seat base, pull the vinyl back far Here's another view of the main wire with the foam removed. We're showing it to you again so you can make sure to remember not to mangle it. Not that we think you have a short attention span or anything. Here's another view of the main wire with the foam removed. We're showing it to you again Keep cutting the nasty, old, rat-pee-smelling burlap off the springs. Now's the time to inspect the seat base for any broken springs. If you find any, it's a big bummer. Pro upholstery guys can buy a roll of spring material and work it into the seat to save it, but you probably shouldn't try it yourself. An easier option may be OPG's application-specific seat-support-spring kits. Luckily, our stuff was good. Now it's clean-up and spray paint time, if you feel like it. Keep cutting the nasty, old, rat-pee-smelling burlap off the springs. Now's the time to in The True Cost ITEM SOURCE PRICE Used '68-'72 A-body bucket seat cores Memory Lane $100.00 Pair of seat covers OPG $169.00 Seat-back kit, includes: seat backs, edge trim, chrome endcaps, lower seat sides, and chrome seat-back lock buttons OPG $220.95 Pair of seat foams OPG $89.95 Chrome seat adjustment knobs OPG $23.90 Seat-back bumpers OPG $7.95 Hog rings and pliers OPG $9.95 4 square yards of burlap Local supplier $8.00 TOTAL $629.70 Note: Prices were good as of press time but may change. The OPG items listed are available seperately-we have shown the most economical method of purchasing them. Nearly any other interior item you need for a Chevelle, El Camino, or GTO is available from OPG. Just FYI, Mike Ambrose would have charged about $250 for this installation. 1 | 2 | » | View Full Article By David Freiburger Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!