The rear suspension components from other '77-and-up GM fullsize cars interchange. Rearends from other '77-and-up GM fullsize cars interchange by swapping yokes. Addco offers a 1-inch rear antisway bar (PN 939).
3. Rochesters respond fine when properly maintained and tuned. Brad Urban's Carb Shop and Jones Performance Carburetion are two nationally recognized Rochester specialists.
Addco Industries Inc
700 East St.
Lake Park, FL 33403-2304
Brad Urban's Carb Shop
8460 Red Oak Ave
Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730-3815
2810 Parkway St. #6
Lakeland, FL 33811-1390
Jones Performance Fuel Systems
17491 Apex Cir
Huntington Beach, CA 92647-5728
Carb vs. EFI
I've got a '67 Fairlane with a 288-degree-duration cam and heads with screw-in studs and adjustable valves. It hits a fairly mean lick, and with the C6 the car moves pretty good. Would the car run any better with electronic ignition and a fuel-injection system, or am I better off with the points distributor and 600 Holley four-barrel single-line carb? I'm just wondering if these upgrades are really worth the time and money to change them.
Upgrading to a closed-loop fuel injection system like the one used in the modern 5.0L Mustangs costs big bucks. According to the Ford EFI swap experts at Windsor-Fox, converting an existing engine costs around $2,300, dropping in a complete used (but still OK) late-model 5.0L engine runs $4,000-$5,000, and installing a brand-new 5.0L EFI will set you back $8,000-plus. Installation is time consuming, and you've got to understand electrical systems. The payoff is a virtually maintenance-free engine with better part-throttle driveability, superior cold-start performance, no hot-summer vapor-lock problems, and the elimination of high-altitude driveability woes. Fuel injection's supposed mileage improvements over an engine with a correctly adjusted and calibrated street carb utilizing vacuum- or air-valve-controlled secondaries is overrated; I know of an early 302 Ranchero/C4 combo that gets over 23 mpg on the highway with a 600 Holley. The real mileage enhancements come by combining fuel-injection and a late-model automatic overdrive trans-but that's more bucks yet.
What is worth the money is tossing that points distributor in favor of an electronic non-computer distributor. Plugs will last longer and foul less, plus the engine maintains its state of tune longer (there's no point gap to "open up"). Ford's '75-'80 Duraspark distributors are plentiful in the junkyard, and parts-store remanufactured units cost $50 or less. There's a good chance the stators are worn on high-mileage units, so I'd go with the reman option.
Another weak point on the Ford Duraspark is the module. However, M.A.D. Enterprises sells a $40 kit (includes a protective external module container, wiring, connectors, and instructions) for hooking up the superior GM HEI module. Be sure to use a genuine GM or AC-Delco module (PNs 1875990 or D1906, respectively).
P.O. Box 675
Springville, CA 93265-0675
Windsor-Fox Performance Engineering
P.O. Box 2683
Apple Valley, CA 92307-0051
The latest engine in my '67 Mustang convertible was built to be capable of 6,000 rpm. Now I need a vacuum-operated heater control valve that won't blow up every time I hit redline!
Silver Spring, MD