Blue Collar 454

Ccrp 1207 Chevrolet 454 Blue Collar Build 01

In case you haven’t noticed, it’s election season, and not surprisingly, the subject of the economy is being hotly debated. While the politicians squabble over capital gains tax rates, the Social Security trust fund, and raising the retirement age, the rest of us are just trying to eke out a modest existence and still have a little automotive fun on the weekends. In that spirit, we present the Blue Collar 454. Of the trio of big-block engines featured in this issue, our lowly 454 posts the least impressive power numbers. However, it was built on a shoestring budget. We reused as many parts as possible, and you’ll notice we included everything in the parts list—paint, oil, even the brake cleaner we used to hose down parts prior to assembly. While our horsepower figures aren’t impressive, the engine starts easily, doesn’t leak, doesn’t overheat, sounds good, and was dirt cheap to build. And, man, does it make torque. You could stick this engine into the Chevy of your choice and smoke all the tread off your tires in a hurry. And sometimes that’s all an engine has to do.

We lifted this engine from the guys at Hot Rod. It came out of a ’70s-era Suburban that Editor-in-Chief David Freiburger parted out. Complete minus a carburetor, we claim a $300 price tag because it’s representative of what our local pick-your-part salvage yards charge for a complete big-block Chevy. If you currently have a big-block, you’re already money ahead.
We lifted this engine from the guys at Hot Rod. It came out of a ’70s-era Suburban that Ed
Hopefully your engine is in better shape than this one was. We expected to find diamonds in the crankcase based on all the fossilized carbon lining the heads and lifter valley. The sludge buildup was truly gross and is proof positive of the negative effects of a poor oil change schedule. During teardown, we saved all the fasteners in separate plastic bags, labeling them accordingly.
Hopefully your engine is in better shape than this one was. We expected to find diamonds i
Based on the sludge buildup, we expected to see junk parts inside the short-block, but the cylinders and main- and rod-bearing journals looked surprisingly good. There was very little wear on the cylinder walls, and the pistons, rods, and crankshaft were all in good enough shape to be reused. We dropped off all the parts at JMS Racing Engines for an aggressive session in the company’s hot tank.
Based on the sludge buildup, we expected to see junk parts inside the short-block, but the

We were thrilled to pick up a squeaky-clean block and crank from JMS a few days later. We were even more thrilled to see minimal wear to the cylinder walls. The worst was 0.0025 inch bigger than the stock 454’s bore spec of 4.250 inches.
We were thrilled to pick up a squeaky-clean block and crank from JMS a few days later. We
Measuring with a straightedge revealed only a 0.0015-inch dip in a couple of spots on the deck. Similarly, the crankshaft’s main and rod journals were within spec. JMS’ Mike Johnson said the crank only needed to be polished before reusing.
Measuring with a straightedge revealed only a 0.0015-inch dip in a couple of spots on the
At home, we ground the casting flash and rough edges off the block, crank, and rods with a combination of carbide bits and sand rolls on a rotary grinding tool we bought at Harbor Freight. Be sure to cover all critical mating surfaces with a couple of layers of masking tape to avoid damage. Back at JMS, Mike showed us a quicker way to polish the connecting rod beams on a belt sander. Not only does this smooth the surface of the rods, but it also helps remove areas where cracks can form.
At home, we ground the casting flash and rough edges off the block, crank, and rods with a

JMS’ Jeff Johnson polished our crank with emery cloth in a polishing tool. Note the polish job we did to the counterweights.
JMS’ Jeff Johnson polished our crank with emery cloth in a polishing tool. Note the polish
As a final step before assembly, we ran a 320-grit Flex Hone through each of the cylinders. Flex Hone recommends using 30-weight oil as a lubricant during this process. We only needed to make between five and seven passes with the hone to achieve a good-looking crosshatch pattern on the cylinder walls. We then thoroughly cleaned the block with degreaser followed by car wash soap, then blew it dry and wiped all the sealing surfaces with WD-40 before painting the outside of the block with Rust-Oleum engine paint.
As a final step before assembly, we ran a 320-grit Flex Hone through each of the cylinders
Our cam bearings had a slight sharp spot just outside the area where the cam journals ride. We removed it with a deburring tool and cleaned the outside of the bearing and bearing bore with brake cleaner.
Our cam bearings had a slight sharp spot just outside the area where the cam journals ride

Installing the cam bearings is a job some people prefer to have a machine shop do for them, but it’s really not that difficult. Line up the oil hole in the bearing with the oil gallery from the main bearing saddle and then drive the bearing in until the two line up.
Installing the cam bearings is a job some people prefer to have a machine shop do for them
Work slowly and check your progress as you drive in the bearing. You can see when the oil holes are aligned by looking down the oil passage. If you go too far, drive the bearing out the other side and start over.
Work slowly and check your progress as you drive in the bearing. You can see when the oil
Next, we checked the straightness of our crankshaft by installing the upper bearing shells in just the front and rear bearing saddles. Using the dial indicator included in our cam degree kit, we turned the crank by hand and watched the indicator. We recorded just less than 0.001 inch of runout.
Next, we checked the straightness of our crankshaft by installing the upper bearing shells

We checked the main bearing clearance by installing all the bearings (don’t use any lube for this process!), torquing the cap, measuring the diameter with a dial bore gauge, and comparing the reading with the corresponding main-journal diameter on the crankshaft. Ours ranged between 0.0025 and 0.003 inch. The main bearing journals are 2.50 inches, which falls on the high side of what most engine builders like to see. A good rule of thumb is 0.001 inch of bearing clearance for every inch of crank bearing journal diameter.
We checked the main bearing clearance by installing all the bearings (don’t use any lube f
Mark IV big-blocks (1966-1996) have two-piece rear main seals. We positioned the seal with the open end of the big lip facing the front of the engine and coated all the upper bearings with assembly lube before dropping the crank in place.
Mark IV big-blocks (1966-1996) have two-piece rear main seals. We positioned the seal with
Next, we installed the lower bearing shell in the cap and coated it with plenty of assembly lube. We lubed the seal with engine oil, being careful not to get any lube on the ends where the upper and lower seals meet, per Fel-Pro’s instructions. We also added a thin bead of RTV silicone in the areas shown to help prevent oil leaking past the seal.
Next, we installed the lower bearing shell in the cap and coated it with plenty of assembl

We checked crankshaft endplay, which measured 0.005 inch. The acceptable range is between 0.004 and 0.008 inch. Too little requires removing material from the thrust side of the bearing; too much may require repairing or replacing the crankshaft.
We checked crankshaft endplay, which measured 0.005 inch. The acceptable range is between
After torquing the main caps to 95 ft-lb, the crankshaft still spun freely when turned by hand. Prior to installing the pistons, we checked the ring end gaps. Though you can buy tools that will square a ring inside the cylinder at the proper depth for checking, we just used a small Allen wrench, checking several spots around the ring to make sure it was square. If it isn’t, the end gap measurements won’t be accurate. We measured 0.022- and 0.024-inch gaps for the first and second rings, respectively.
After torquing the main caps to 95 ft-lb, the crankshaft still spun freely when turned by
After being bolted together, the rod caps fit tightly enough that you can’t open them by hand. You can buy a dedicated connecting rod separator tool if you have the means. We didn’t, so we modified our bench vise to make it work like one. We unscrewed the jaw inserts of our vise and mounted them so they stuck out of the jaws far enough to hang a rod from them. We put heater hose over the inserts to keep from scratching the rods while separating the caps from the rods. Unscrew the nuts, but leave them so they are just barely engaged to the rod bolt. Tap on the nuts with a soft hammer to drive the rod from the cap.
After being bolted together, the rod caps fit tightly enough that you can’t open them by h

Our makeshift cap separator also provides a sound platform to hold the piston while installing the rings. Start with the oil expander, then install the upper and lower oil-control rails. Next, install the second and top compression rings. We indexed the two upper ring gaps 180 degrees from each other.
Our makeshift cap separator also provides a sound platform to hold the piston while instal
We coated the rings and piston skirts with engine oil mixed with a couple of drops of assembly lube prior to dropping them into the cylinders.
We coated the rings and piston skirts with engine oil mixed with a couple of drops of asse
After driving on the new crankshaft timing sprocket, we installed Summit Racing’s camshaft, cam timing sprocket, and double-roller timing chain.
After driving on the new crankshaft timing sprocket, we installed Summit Racing’s camshaft

The cam specs are 218/228 degrees duration at 0.050 tappet lift, 0.500/0.500 valve lift, and a 114-degree lobe-separation angle. Checking with our degree wheel, the readings were spot on, meaning our Summit cam and timing set were spot on. While we were at it, we measured a deck height of 0.014 inch.
The cam specs are 218/228 degrees duration at 0.050 tappet lift, 0.500/0.500 valve lift, a
The lifters didn’t fit when we tried to install them. The only explanation we can think of is that when the block was in the shot abrader, the lead shot may have peened over the edges of the lifter bore openings. With no time to disassemble the bottom end, we stuffed paper towels in the lifter bores and the openings in the valley and chamfered the bore openings with a deburring tool. We used a magnetic pickup tool to vacuum up the bigger slivers of iron and managed to keep the metal from falling on the camshaft. This leads us to Rookie Tech Tip No. 2: Deburr and test-fit everything before you start assembly.
The lifters didn’t fit when we tried to install them. The only explanation we can think of
JMS rebuilt the stock oval-port cylinders using the original springs, valves, and retainers. The company did a valve job and replaced the valve stem seals. These heads are heavy. Get a friend to help if you can. If you’re on your own, a clever solution is to raise yourself up (standing on milk crates, in this case) to match the height of your engine stand so you aren’t lifting the heads up too high by yourself. By the way, we used the huge leather gloves to set the head on the block so we could wiggle our fingers out and position the head over the dowels. Once it was in place, we slipped the gloves out one at a time, avoiding scratching the gasket or sealing surfaces.
JMS rebuilt the stock oval-port cylinders using the original springs, valves, and retainer

Finally, we removed the engine from its stand, bolting it to Summit’s rolling engine dolly. We then installed the harmonic balancer, Summit Racing’s dual-plane intake manifold and aluminum water pump, prior to transporting it to JMS Racing Engines for its date with the dyno.
Finally, we removed the engine from its stand, bolting it to Summit’s rolling engine dolly

The Blue Collar 454

By the numbers:
Bore: 4.250
Stroke: 4.000
Main bearing journal: 2.750
Rod bearing journal: 2.200
Firing order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Compression ratio: 7.98:1
Flat-top pistons 0.014 inch below the deck, 0.043 compressed gasket thickness, 120cc combustion chamber heads

On the Dyno

Yup, we were nervous on dyno day. But instead of needing a mop and bucket, we were able to just stand back and watch as JMS’ Jeff Johnson fired the engine and ran it through a standard cam break-in schedule. We were pleased to find no leaks, chuffing smoke, or deathly rattles. Instead, the engine settled into a smooth idle with the correct oil pressure. We weren’t sure what to expect for power; this is a small cam, but we chose it because our guy at Summit says it’s the company’s best seller for big-block Chevys. Why argue with numbers like that?

Obviously, Summit’s customers like torquey big-blocks, as this cam allowed our combination to make 511 lb-ft of tire-melting torque at a nearly off-idle 3,500 rpm. Horsepower peaked at a languid 4,900 rpm, and the 408 figure was better than we expected.

It’s hard to beat this combination for the price (see the accompanying chart for the breakdown). This build only cost $1,900 carb to pan, including the oil in the pan, and including the machine shop costs. Note that we didn’t include the cost of headers (they vary depending on your car) and tools because many of them can be rented or borrowed.

Stay tuned for more of the Blue Collar 454. We have plans for more compression, more cam, and a tune-up to the iron heads. We’ll see how far we can stretch our dollars in search of max power for minimal cost.

POWER	HORSEPOWER	TORQUE
3,000	271	475
3,100	290	491
3,200	305	500
3,300	318	507
3,400	330	509
3,500	340	511
3,600	350	511
3,700	358	508
3,800	365	505
3,900	372	502
4,000	377	497
4,100	385	494
4,200	390	488
4,300	392	487
4,400	395	472
4,500	397	464
4,600	400	457
4,700	405	453
4,800	408	446
4,900	408	436
5,000	407	427

PARTS

DESCRIPTION	PN	SOURCE	PRICE
Used 454 engine	NA	Hot Rod Magazine	$300.00
Engine re-ring kit	FEM-205613M-00	Summit	239.39
Cam bearings	SLP-1404M	Summit	24.95
Cam kit	SUM-K1301	Summit	109.95
HEI distributor	SUM-850001R	Summit	80.95
Timing set	SUM-G6610	Summit	37.95
Water pump	SUM-312016	Summit	149.95
Intake manifold	SUM-226022	Summit	157.95
Street and strip carburetor	SUM-M08750VS	Summit	249.95
Engine paint		O’Reilly Auto Parts	8.99
RTV sealer	VER-99839	O’Reilly Auto Parts	5.49
Gasgacinch	440A	A&G Auto Parts	5.59
Brake cleaner		AutoZone	3.99
WD-40		AutoZone	4.5
Sealed Power assembly lube	SLP-55-400	Summit Racing	4.25
Comp Cams Engine Break-In Oil, case	CCA-1590	Comp Cams	59.95
Oil filter		JMS Racing Engines	4.59
Spark plugs, Bosch Super Plus (8)	BSCH-7972	Summit Racing	$15.60
Total			$1,463.99

LABOR

DESCRIPTION	PN	PRICE
Hot-tank and shot-blast engine	JMS Racing Engines	$100.00
Polish crankshaft	JMS Racing Engines	45
Assemble heads	JMS Racing Engines	300
Total		$445.00

TOOLS

DESCRIPTION	PN	SOURCE	PRICE
Straightedge	PRO-67421	Summit Racing	$83.50
Outside micrometer set, 0–3-inch	SUM-90014	Summit Racing	51.95
Outside micrometer, 4–5 inch	PRO-67434	Summit Racing	61.25
Dial bore gauge	PRO-67411	Summit Racing	139.95
Balancer puller/installer kit	WMR-W89711	Summit Racing	79.95
Cam bearing installer	PRO-66820	Summit Racing	203.95
Deburring kit		Sears	11.5
40-piece SAE tap and die kit	39,384	Harbor Freight	17.99
Head-porting kit	SUM-G1060	Summit Racing	29.95
Flex Hone	BRH-GBD41232	Summit Racing	94.95
Ring compressor	SME-90A4250	Summit Racing	26.95
Crank socket	SUM-G1061	Summit Racing	20.95
Universal degree wheel	66,787	Summit Racing	89.95
Oil pump pickup driver	PRO-66480	Summit Racing	16.88
Engine Dolly	SUM-910057	Summit Racing	32.95
Total			$962.62