The Car Craft Turbo Demon Building The Headers And Motor Mounts

Ccrp 1205 Project Turbo Demon Build Headers And Motor Mounts 07

Our plan was simple. Drag home this cool, half-built, Pro Street Demon and finish the job. The car had a Chris Alston’s Battle Cruiser back half, so naturally we added Alston’s front frameclip to get the car on its wheels.

The next step was to add an eBay Hemi and a set of turbos and plug the whole thing into a TorqueFlite before heading to the dragstrip. During the engine installation phase, we discovered the engine sat farther back in the car than we anticipated and lower in the chassis, moving the job away from something that could be done with a straightedge and some string on the garage floor. The fabrication of the exhaust piping for the turbos and the custom motor mounts required that the engine be placed correctly in the car, and that was beyond the abilities of our shop tools. To get help completing this stage of the buildup, CC fabricator Grant Peterson took the car to Jimmy White at Circle City Hot Rods in Orange, California.

Here is the Demon on all four wheels and a paint layout by The Harpoon. The idea here is 9s in the quarter, but we secretly like the sound of an 8-second pass.
Here is the Demon on all four wheels and a paint layout by The Harpoon. The idea here is 9
Every measurement we made here is based on the distance from the frame to the ground, the angle of the engine, and a balance between hood clearance and oil-pan ground clearance.
Every measurement we made here is based on the distance from the frame to the ground, the
The Chris Alston's front frame kit we installed is designed to sit 6 inches off the ground. Using the specs provided in the kit, we built spacers with 3/4-inch square tubing and drilled holes at the top and bottom with 10 inches in between them. This simulates the front ride height of the VariShocks so we can see where the engine sits in relation to the ground.
The Chris Alston's front frame kit we installed is designed to sit 6 inches off the ground

With ride height established, we installed the engine so the balancer cleared the rack-and-pinion and the pan cleared the ground. This is where we had to go into the firewall (we will address that problem in a future issue).
With ride height established, we installed the engine so the balancer cleared the rack-and
Using the stock engine mounts as a pattern, Peterson built the square bolt plate out of 3/16-inch cold rolled steel and attached it to the engine. He then found the mounting point he liked on the frame and built in between using 1-inch DOM tubing for the struts and 11/2-inch solid bar stock with a 1/2-inch hole drilled in it for the engine mount bolt.
Using the stock engine mounts as a pattern, Peterson built the square bolt plate out of 3/
By this point, we had set the drivetrain angle at 3 degrees down, spaced the engine equally side to side, and double-checked the ground clearance with the frame blocked at 6 inches from the ground. Using an LS crossmember from Muscle Rods, Peterson fabricated a crossmember for the 727.
By this point, we had set the drivetrain angle at 3 degrees down, spaced the engine equall

With the motor mounts welded, we needed to shorten the ride height and reset the chassis to maximum travel to ensure the suspension wouldn't crash into the new headers when the car comes out of a wheelie, for instance.
With the motor mounts welded, we needed to shorten the ride height and reset the chassis t
Instead of trying to build an exhaust flange, we bought this 5.7/6.1L flange from Stainless Works. We also bought the T4 turbo flange, collector, and a collection of 13/4-inch stainless 180-degree U-bends. In a turbo application, the rule is to choose the best primary tube size.for a N/A engine application.
Instead of trying to build an exhaust flange, we bought this 5.7/6.1L flange from Stainles
The first job was fitting the collector into the T4 turbo flange and welding it together. Peterson used a TIG welder, 308 stainless rod, and skills.
The first job was fitting the collector into the T4 turbo flange and welding it together.

With the flange bolted to the engine, White built what was in between, using cut-and-paste trial and error. We chose this position for the turbo flange because it gave us room for the cold-side plumbing and clearance for the exhaust, and it put the turbos high enough to drain oil back to the pan. Getting the first tube to the collector and tacking it to the flange is the hardest part.
With the flange bolted to the engine, White built what was in between, using cut-and-paste
The tubes need to be modified to fit the D-shaped exhaust port and flange. The hash mark is a guide to center the tube and retain the correct angle between it and the collector prior to flattening the tube.
The tubes need to be modified to fit the D-shaped exhaust port and flange. The hash mark i
Here you can see the tube fitted into the flange. This one was persuaded with a big bench vice. The final fitting will be done with a hammer to ensure there won't be any gaps in the flange-to-tube fitment.
Here you can see the tube fitted into the flange. This one was persuaded with a big bench

The first tube was made from two bends that were trimmed and tacked to connect the flange to the collector. Once the tubes, flange, and collector are tacked securely, they can be removed for bench work. Note the upper control arm is in the highest position it will achieve when the suspension is fully compressed.
The first tube was made from two bends that were trimmed and tacked to connect the flange
With the header on the bench, it is easier to create the center tubes. Remember, we aren't bending anything. These are mandrel bent stainless U-bends. We purchased a box of 180-degree pieces for this job.
With the header on the bench, it is easier to create the center tubes. Remember, we aren't
Stainless steel eats tools, so you need to wax the bandsaw blade before every cut to keep it working. The trick here is to
Stainless steel eats tools, so you need to wax the bandsaw blade before every cut to keep

After you tack the header together in the shape you want, you need to take it apart again to prepare the tubes for final welding. Mark and number each tube joint and its position as best you can to ensure it goes back together the right way after final welding or else you'll want to cry yourself to sleep when the header doesn't fit.
After you tack the header together in the shape you want, you need to take it apart again
To prep the tubes, Peterson used a drum sander to remove slag and burrs. Alternatively, you can use a file or carbide burr to do the job.
To prep the tubes, Peterson used a drum sander to remove slag and burrs. Alternatively, yo
Because the chemical properties of stainless steel differ from mild steel, the welding process is different. Air present on the backside of a stainless steel weld will contaminate the joint, creating an area likely to form cracks in time. To prevent this, the recommended method is to back purge the weld area (in this case sealing off the ends of the tubes and filling the part with Argon), or you can use the flux to do the same job. We mixed the fuel treatment, Heet with Solar Flux type B powder, to create a paste that is brushed on the inside of each joint prior to welding.
Because the chemical properties of stainless steel differ from mild steel, the welding pro

After the tube has been tacked, any gaps are hammered out before the final bead. This critical weld is on the inside of the tube rather than around the outside, as an additional measure to eliminate destructive air gaps.
After the tube has been tacked, any gaps are hammered out before the final bead. This crit
This is how the tubes look when you pull off the collector. To get them even, the entire thing needs to be run through a bandsaw.
This is how the tubes look when you pull off the collector. To get them even, the entire t
The triangles were cut with a bandsaw from extra tube. They were cut large on the outside so they could be trimmed to fit. The center star came with the collector from Stainless Works.
The triangles were cut with a bandsaw from extra tube. They were cut large on the outside

This is no small task. At least three days of welding is required to create the final product. Jimmy White would charge about $1,500 to 3,000 for this job, depending on materials and complexity. If it was easy or cheap, it wouldn't be cool.
This is no small task. At least three days of welding is required to create the final prod
With the hot side done, it's time to create a new firewall using a kit from Alston's. Here you get a sneak peek at the new downbars and fender tabs to mount the front end.
With the hot side done, it's time to create a new firewall using a kit from Alston's. Here

SOURCES
Autotronic Controls/MSD Ignition 1490 Henry Brennan Dr El Paso TX 79936 915-857-5200 www.msdignition.com	Stainless Works 9899 E. Washington St. Chargrin Falls OH 44023 800-878-6935 www.stainlessworks.net
Summit Racing Equipment PO Box 909 Akron OH 44398 800-230-3030 330-630-0240 www.summitracing.com	Chris Alston's Chassisworks 8661 Younger Creek Drive Sacramento CA 95828 916-388-0288 www.cachassisworks.com
Miller Electric 1635 W. Spencer Street Appleton WI 54912 920-734-9821 www.millerwelds.com	eBay Motors www.ebaymotors.com
Comp Cams 3406 Democrat Road Memphis TN 38118 800-999-0853 www.compcams.com	Performance Automatic 8174 Beechcraft Ave. Gaithersburg MD 20879 240-439-4650 http://www.performanceautomatic. com
Lincoln Electric 22801 St. Clair Ave Cleveland OH 44117 216-481-8100 www.lincolnelectric.com	Holley Performance Products 1801 Russellville Rd P.O. Box 10360 Bowling Green KY 42102 270-782-2900 www.holley.com
Wilwood Engineering 4700 Calle Bolero Camarillo CA 93012 805-388-1188 www.wilwood.com	Mopar Performance & Accessories P.O. BOX 21-8004 Auburn Hills MI 48321 800-992-1997 www.mopar.com/performance
Glasstek Naperville IL 630-978-9897 www.glasstek.com	Street & Performance P.O. Box 1169 Mena AR 71953 501-394-5711
Circle City Hot Rods 2199 North Batavia Street #R Orange CA 92868 714-279-0400 www.circlecityhotrods.com	Andrews Powder Coating 818-700-1030 www.powdercoater.com
Coker Tire 13187 Chestnut Street Chattanooga TN 37402 423-265-6368 www.cokertire.com	BBK Performance 27440 Bostik Court Temecula CA 92590 951-296-1771 www.bbkperformance.com
Turbosmart 11650 Mission Park Drive Suite 103 Rancho Cucamonga CA 91730 909-476-2570 www.turbosmartonline.com	IC Engine Works Austin TX 800-597-3312 www.icengineworks.com
BRP Muscle Rods 5849 Rogers Rd. Cumming GA 30040 770-751-0687 www.musclerods.com	Transmission Specialties 375 Turner Industrial Way Aston PA 19014 610-485-9110 www.transmission-specialties.com
Speedway Motors 340 Victory Lane Lincoln ME 68528 800-979-0122 www.speedwaymotors.com	DIY AutoTune/MegaSquirt Suwanee GA www.diyautotune.com
Comp Turbo 221 West Allen Avenue San Dimas CA 91773 909-599-5757 www.compturbo.com