How To Install Rear Quarters And Mini-Tubs - Step By Step

The trunk floor drop-off must be in place before the quarter goes on. Cleco pins are a great alternative when an area can't be reached with a clamp. Once the drop-off is properly located with the quarter clamped in place, remove the trunk floor to clamp and plug-weld the drop-off to the floor.

MCR no longer re-leads the factory seams, preferring instead to weld them and use the latest body fillers. Of course that means any remaining traces of lead must be removed to guarantee a trouble-free weld. A Scotch-Brite Clean and Strip disc does a great job. All e-coated surfaces should be cleaned, too.

If perfect panel seams are desired, lay the trunk lid in place before final welding of this part of the quarter so minor adjustments can be made while the quarter can still be easily moved.

Leaving the original doorjamb in place allows MCR to adjust the door-to-quarter gap before final welding. Enough material is left so the new quarter will overlap the old. The 0.035-inch Spedecut wheel can then cut through both parts leaving the perfect sized gap for butt welding.

The secret to achieving invisible, distortion-free butt welds is to place successive tack welds in between each other, quenched with compressed air only, until the gaps between the welds are about 1/4 inch apart. It is then OK to use no more than three quick tack welds to close the gap. Never try to run even a short bead. No stitch welding. Only simple tack welds.

MCR prefers a 3M Reinforced Weld Grinding Disc to smooth out the welds. Be careful not to remove any of the sheetmetal. It's easier than you think to produce a thin spot. When done correctly, the seam practically vanishes.

Use a 36-grit sanding disc (Norton Speed-Lok) to grind the plug welds flush with the sheetmetal so they'll disappear under the finish. This quarter is in place and ready for paint prep.