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Align-Honing Distributor - What's Your Problem?

What's more important is that any kind of pump is more efficient at pushing than pulling. This is especially critical when working with engine-driven pumps because the pump must pull the fuel over a 10- to 12-foot circuitous route before it pressurizes the fuel up to the carburetor. Given this, the best way to make a stock-appearing mechanical pump more efficient is to minimize the restrictions on the inlet side. That does not mean you need to go with a 1/2-inch line, but it would probably be a good idea to go with a new 3/8-inch fuel line. Classic Tube offers brand-new mild steel or stainless tubing fuel lines that are accurately bent to reproduce the original factory layout. This ensures that the inside of the line is clean, rust-free, and can feed the most amount of fuel. You mentioned expensive fuel inlets. I'm not sure if that is in reference to the RobbMc 1/2-inch fuel pickup, which I think is pretty cool. It is a fabricated pickup complete with a new sending unit and float fitted with 1/2-inch tubes on the inlet and return lines. It may be slightly overkill for your system, but it's a good buy at $149. A lower cost option is to purchase a new stock replacement pickup assembly from Year One, and modify it by removing the stock 3/8-inch line and replacing it with a 1/2-inch line that can then be adapted to the 3/8-inch line that runs the length of the car. That way, the pickup is as efficient as possible.

As an added precaution, it would be wise to temporarily connect a fuel pressure gauge to the cowl where you can see it and run the car down the dragstrip (or a test place that's safe) and watch the fuel pressure under load at peak rpm. You need a minimum of 4 psi of fuel pressure. The Carter pump we mentioned is rated at 7 to 8 psi and does not require a regulator. As for the carb recommendations, since peak power is not a concern, then your Holley 750 HP is a good choice. You may not even need to rejet, but inspect your plugs closely after a quick test run. If the plugs look glazed or bone white, add four jet sizes on the secondary side and run the car again. If the mph improves, more tuning is necessary, but you're moving in the right direction.

More Info
Classic Tube
Lancaster, NY
800/882-3711
classictube.com

Federal-Mogul (Carter)
Southfield, MI
248/354-7700
federal-mogul.com

RobbMc Performance
Carson
City, NV
775/885-7411
robbmcperformance.com

Year One; Braselton
GA 800/932-7663
yearone.com

Wheelhop Woes
Adam Stanton, Menomonie, WI: I have a '73 Mustang fastback with a 400hp 351C, a T5 trans, a 9-inch rearend with a 3.89:1 rear gear, and 18-inch Torq-Thrust wheels with 275/45R17s out back. I have owned the car since I was 16, and I'm now 27. I'm always modifying it. It has horrible wheelhop. Launching hard or soft . . . it just broke the spider gears in my Traction-Lok posi, and I need help.

I have new KYB shocks and bushings, new motor and trans mounts, a new driveshaft with 1330 U-joints, a rebuilt rearend, and five leaf springs. I had traction bars, but the car still hopped, so I upgraded to those under-ride or Shelby bars and subframe connectors. This didn't help-I still have wheelhop. My driveline angles are trans -1 degree, driveshaft -1 degree, rearend -4 degrees (negative means pointed toward the ground). I have researched this and have found nothing more than what I have already done. I know you guys can help me. I want it fixed so I can lay into the throttle.

CC Quickies
We drove to Willow Springs last weekend to watch the action at a Speed Ventures track day. While we fully endorse driving your street car on the track, we can understand why one would be fearful of getting rock chips all over his new Z06. But we can't endorse covering your car in shrink-wrap. This guy needs one of those clear bras.

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