If the brakes have been on the vehicle for some time, this would be a great time to replace or machine the rotors and then repack the front wheel bearings. Our brakes had barely 5,000 miles on the conversion, so it wasn't necessary. We degreased the rotors with brake cleaner, popped the new pads in, dropped the assembly over the rotor, and torqued the caliper bolts to 35 ft-lb. If the brakes have been on the vehicle for some time, this would be a great time to replac Tech tip: Never return the utensils to the kitchen after you use them in the shop. Deny everything. Bedding Pads Few magazine stories on installing high-performance brake systems ever mention that new pads must be bedded properly beforehand to achieve maximum performance. Even normal driving may not achieve sufficient temperature to properly bed the pads. The procedure accomplishes this final heat cycle for the brake material. This is important for race cars, but track time is expensive, so Wilwood offers a service that will bed a set of pads. For street cars, however, this isn't necessary, as Wilwood publishes a very specific bedding process that we've included in the accompanying chart. What you do not want to do is bolt on a new set of pads and then immediately abuse the brakes in a competition situation such as a road course track day. Excessive heat applied too quickly can cause the pad material to crack or glaze, neither of which will produce optimal pad performance. This bedding process also allows the pads to transfer a small amount of material onto the rotor surface, which optimizes the coefficient of friction to the rotor. Allow 20 to 30 seconds between each step to stabilize the brake temperature. Proportioning Valve Tuning Whether you're adding disc bakes to a drum brake car or converting original discs to a larger or more modern front disc system, this changes the original factory balance between the front and rear brake systems. The change in brake balance is the main reason for always using an adjustable brake proportioning valve for the system. The most common type of brake proportioning (prop) valve for street cars is located in line with the rear brake hydraulic line. The valve is used to adjust the amount of hydraulic pressure applied to the rear brakes. For some reason, our iron calipers used a 3/8-inch banjo bolt, while the Wilwood pieces use the more common 7/16x20-inch version. We rounded up one after locating a Dorman PN 13935. Summit sells these bolts for $5.99 each, so check your caliper first to make sure you have the correct fastener. Make sure you use the proper crush washers on both sides of the fitting to ensure a leak-free seal. For some reason, our iron calipers used a 3/8-inch banjo bolt, while the Wilwood pieces us While we could have reused our original hoses even with the larger 7/16-inch bolt, we decided to upgrade to a set of Russell stainless steel-covered hoses for '70 Chevelle disc brakes. The Teflon-lined hoses deflect far less than the stock pieces, producing a firmer brake pedal. We clocked the line at the caliper upward, since that appeared to be the best place to prevent the line from hitting the upper control arm or the spring during full-lock turns. This is an important point that should not be overlooked. While we could have reused our original hoses even with the larger 7/16-inch bolt, we deci While we elected to retain the dual reservoir master on our Olds, Wilwood makes a nice aluminum master cylinder that we used on our Orange Peel Chevelle to reduce weight. One advantage to using the 7/8-inch master cylinder piston is that this smaller piston generates more brake pressure, which eliminates the need for a clunky power booster. The factory dual reservoir master we are using is a 15/16-inch-diameter piston, which works fine for this application. Trivia question: Let's see a show of hands for the guys who have stolen kitchen utensils to be used as shop tools. While we elected to retain the dual reservoir master on our Olds, Wilwood makes a nice alu Since our disc brake conversion had been in service for more than two years, we decided to remove the original brake fluid and replace it with fresh fluid that would have a higher boiling point. We stole the wife's turkey baster and used it to remove the old brake fluid from the master cylinder and replaced the fluid with new Amsoil DOT 3. Since our disc brake conversion had been in service for more than two years, we decided to The final step was to bleed all four corners to not only purge all the old fluid but to eliminate the air in the system. If you're not in a hurry, gravity-bleeding one corner at a time is a good way to purge the air. We drilled the cap of an old water bottle to hold the hose and catch the old fluid. Be sure to properly dispose of the old fluid. We turn it in to the local hazardous waste roundup. The final step was to bleed all four corners to not only purge all the old fluid but to el With both Wilwood calipers installed and the brakes bled, we were ready to bolt the wheels back on and find a safe place to bed the brake pads. With both Wilwood calipers installed and the brakes bled, we were ready to bolt the wheels « | 1 | 2 | 3 | » | View Full Article By Jeff Smith Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!