How To Spot Bad Bodywork

The deeper you look into that potential purchase, the more you will know what you're getting into before you lay down the cash.

The deeper you look into that potential purchase, the more you will know what you're getti

If you watch television, CSI: Las Vegas and its string of spin-offs are all about collecting evidence and determining how the crime went down. In the hunt for an old car to turn into the next ultimate street machine, the process is much the same. Evaluating a car requires careful attention to details-and the car will reveal its story. We talked with Frank Saenz who does muscle car restoration in Ventura, California, to get some tips on ways to evaluate a car. According to Saenz, "It's like you're doing a CSI on the car, trying to re-create the crime that happened to it." So slap on your latex gloves and Car Scene Investigator hat and we'll take a run at some old car investigator tricks.

This story will outline typical problem areas that crop up with most '60s-and-later production cars. Even so-called rust-free West Coast- and Southwest-area cars can exhibit nasty corrosion that can be hard to spot unless you look closely. The other big land mine is poorly repaired collision damage that is often concealed with buckets of plastic body filler. These efforts are not as easy to spot with a casual glance and may require the use of a simple tool like a pocket magnet to help identify areas where the Bondo hides.

This leads us to the final chapter of the story where, after finding the car and performing a thorough inspection, you must make a decision as to whether the damage you've uncovered still makes the car a decent purchase. You must also realize that there is almost certainly much more evil lurking underneath that paint that you didn't find. This is where advice from dispassionate friends can be extremely helpful, since they will look at the car with a much more objective eye and give you feedback on whether it's a good deal. It's important to listen carefully when your buddy tells you, "It's a rust bucket-walk away." Of course, that's assuming you trust him not to come back and buy the car when your back is turned. Buying old cars is equal parts science, art, and finance that requires you to be enthusiastic about what you're about to buy but not get lost in the romance without knowing at least most of the car's secrets.

The first thing to do when inspecting the car is to look at it as a whole, sighting down the body to inspect the lines. It's possible to catch some flaws just by visually examining the car. Mismatched body lines between the door and fenders are not unusual, however. If you can stand directly behind the car and see the whole left side of it, it would be best to find a new candidate.
The first thing to do when inspecting the car is to look at it as a whole, sighting down t
A simple rust check on most '60s and '70s cars is to open the trunk. GM A-bodies and most Chrysler products suffered from chronic-leaking-rear-window syndrome that spewed water into the trunk, leading to nasty rust-through. As you can see, this '64 Olds trunk floor is badly corroded. Also look for rusty water stains leading from the corners of the rear window into the trunk, especially on the driver side. This guarantees that the rear window channel will have to be repaired.
A simple rust check on most '60s and '70s cars is to open the trunk. GM A-bodies and most
If the trunk looks intact, look for a seam that may indicate that a portion of the trunk floor has been replaced (arrows). This gives you more information about the car's condition and should lead you to look carefully at the rear window area because trunk floors are easier to replace than the rear window panel.
If the trunk looks intact, look for a seam that may indicate that a portion of the trunk f

Even if the trunk looks cherry, that's no guarantee the rear window doesn't leak. The only way to tell if the window channel is intact is to remove the stainless trim around the window, but telltale signs like paint stains and rust pits around the outside of the window on this Camaro are an excellent clue.
Even if the trunk looks cherry, that's no guarantee the rear window doesn't leak. The only
Another favorite place for rust to hide is in the footwell area where a leaking seam or the front window channel can funnel water directly to the floor and soak the carpet, eventually rusting the floor. You can try inspecting underneath the car, but the best approach will require peeling back the carpet.
Another favorite place for rust to hide is in the footwell area where a leaking seam or th
Run your hand carefully up into the leading edges of the rear quarter-panels to look for a nonoriginal seam. We purchased a '67 Camaro that we thought was pristine only to discover later it had been treated to a partial driver-side quarter-panel that had to be replaced.
Run your hand carefully up into the leading edges of the rear quarter-panels to look for a

Thick Bondo tends to crack very easily. This obvious fissure is a clear indication that the quarter-panel on our '64 Olds was treated to a quickie fix with a thick coat of body filler that later cracked.
Thick Bondo tends to crack very easily. This obvious fissure is a clear indication that th
Saenz also looks at the position of the vent wing assembly in relation to the door frame to look for obvious gaps that may indicate a tweaked body.
Saenz also looks at the position of the vent wing assembly in relation to the door frame t
Obvious rust spots like these indicate much deeper and wider-spread rust once the paint is removed. Also consider whether replacement panels are available. More obscure cars will require custom-fabricated panels that will cost more time and/or money.
Obvious rust spots like these indicate much deeper and wider-spread rust once the paint is

Light refrigerator magnets are a simple tool that can indicate the use of Bondo. A small but strong magnet will penetrate thin layers of filler and make a great tool for indicating thick filler. We experimented on a known Bondo-filled panel and noticed that a certain Bondo thickness will reduce the pull of the magnet. With some experience, this can be a very useful tool.
Light refrigerator magnets are a simple tool that can indicate the use of Bondo. A small b
Look at the front frame horns and the bumper mounts for collision damage or wrinkles.
Saenz says he compares the front suspension alignment shims on both A-arms to see if they are similar. A much greater shim package on one side may indicate compensation for frame damage.
Saenz says he compares the front suspension alignment shims on both A-arms to see if they

When It's Time to Cut and Run
The older our coveted Camaros, 'Cudas, and Mustangs become, the less likely it will be to find a near-rust-free project car. We can tell you from personal experience that saving an extremely rusty survivor can be a very expensive proposition. I bought my '66 SS396 Chevelle in Iowa in 1971, and the Chevelle plowed through 13 years worth of nasty Iowa winters before I moved to California in 1979. Another 20 years transpired before I began its restoration, which I thought would only require a new floorpan. I took the car to Sal Perez at American Muscle Cars in San Bernardino, California, to perform the surgery since the company takes the time to install panels replicating the original factory spot welds. By the time Perez's guys were finished, only the original roof, firewall, doors, decklid, front fenders, and some of the inboard reinforcement panels remained. The rest of the car resembled a pin cushion with rampant rust throughout the body. Even the hood suffered from rust perforation. There is still much more to do on the car, and the bill just for the labor topped $15,000. When compared with the price of a brand-new Dynacorn body at roughly $15,000 (they unfortunately don't make a '66 Chevelle body-yet), you can quickly see how it can be an advantage to purchase a new body rather than attempt to restore a rusty original.

To give you an idea of the cost of restoration, we also did a quick accounting of the major sheetmetal parts for a '66 Chevelle of front fenders, door shells, a floorpan kit, quarter- and rocker panels, a trunk floor, and inner and outer wheelhouses. The OPG retail price for just these parts tops $3,300. Add perhaps another $1,000 for miscellaneous support panels and body mounts and the total bill to restore the sheetmetal could easily reach $20,000. If the work is on a Mopar or a Ford, expect to pay more for similar panels due to their smaller sales volume. I went ahead because I wanted to say this was still my original high school car, and it cost me a bunch of money to make that claim.

The rule of thumb for determining how much an entire project will cost is to triple your best estimate. Of course, that's if you really want to know. Most of us don't.

This is my Chevelle at American Muscle Cars on its way to the chemical stripper. The dip revealed much more extensive rust damage. The body resembled a piece of Swiss cheese, and the point where a smarter man would have cut his losses and looked for a better body.
This is my Chevelle at American Muscle Cars on its way to the chemical stripper. The dip r
This is the layout of replacement sheetmetal panels from Original Parts Group (OPG) required to return the corroded shell back to something resembling an intact '66 Chevelle.
This is the layout of replacement sheetmetal panels from Original Parts Group (OPG) requir
The Chevelle has stagnated at this stage until I can save enough to renew the project. Both doors and front fenders still need minor surgery, and the original hood is so badly pin-holed that we'll replace it with a Goodmark reproduction SS hood.
The Chevelle has stagnated at this stage until I can save enough to renew the project. Bot

SOURCES
Original Parts Group Seal Beach CA 562-594-1000 www.opgi.com	American Muscle Cars San Bernardino CA 909-381-7439 www.americanmusclecars.net
Goodmark Industries 625 Old Norcross Road Suite E Lawrenceville GA 30045 877-477-3577 www.goodmarkindustries.com	Dynacorn Classic Bodies 4030 Via Pescador Camarillo CA 93012 805-987-8818 www.dynacornclassicbodies.com