With 6 quarts of Quaker State in the reservoir, spin the oil pump with an electric drill motor and it will only take a few minutes to pressure-lube any late-model DIS engine. This happens to be an all-aluminum 5.3L. With 6 quarts of Quaker State in the reservoir, spin the oil pump with an electric drill m Late-model engines such as the GM Gen III/IV, Ford Mod motors, and the late-model Mopar Hemi have become the new darlings of horsepower seekers. These engines have strong cylinder blocks, excellent heads, and durable valvetrains. They also are significantly different from the muscle car-era small- and big-block engines. None of these engines use a distributor, preferring instead to rely on the much more accurate distributorless ignition systems (DIS). These engines also now drive the oil pump directly off the crankshaft. While this improves pump efficiency and reduces load on the camshaft, it also eliminates the time-honored technique of using a dummy distributor drive to pressure-lube a new engine before it starts for the first time. Since pressure-lubing a new engine is such a good idea, we had to find a new way to accomplish this. In our discussions with retired GM engineer Don Webb, he suggested building a sealed unit that could be quickly and inexpensively built and easily used as often as necessary. The idea employs a simple sealed plastic bucket to house an oil pump driven with a 1/2-inch electric drill motor connecting the pump outlet to the engine with a high-pressure AN line. For a return, we added a hose between the oil pan and the bucket. As a sealed unit, this tool can be used as many times as necessary and is also easy to store and reuse. We found most of the pieces needed to construct this backyard pressure luber laying around the shop. The only items we had to purchase were a bucket, a lid, and a metric 12mm bolt from the local hardware store, along with a specific metric fitting from Orme Bros. to adapt the pressure line to the Gen III engine. This fitting can also be reused and should be kept with the tool. While this specific story is designed around a GM Gen III/IV engine, all it would take are specific fittings for a Ford Mod and Mopar Hemi to make this pressure luber a universal item for all late-model engines. We have about four hours into designing and building this tool, but you could probably build it in less time. There are also a couple of upgrades we would make based on what we've learned. The biggest thing we would change is to use a smaller, 2-gallon bucket rather than our 5-gallon prototype. The hardware store was out of 2-gallon buckets and we didn't want to wait. For about $50.00 worth of fittings and a little fab work, you could build one for yourself. So what are you waiting for? The only bucket the local OSH store had in stock was a 5-gallon variety with a secure lid. We stuck a Car Craft license plate on it to make it official. The only bucket the local OSH store had in stock was a 5-gallon variety with a secure lid. Next, we rounded up a couple of pieces of round aluminum plate that fit flush on both sides of the lid. We then used a metal hole saw kit to drill two 1-inch holes in the lid for the pressure output and the return lines. We also drilled a pair of 1/4-inch mounting holes to secure the oil pump to the lid. Finally, we positioned three more 1/4-inch holes to attach the aluminum plates to the lid. Next, we rounded up a couple of pieces of round aluminum plate that fit flush on both side Our Project Boat Anchor small-block Chevy engine contributed its original oil pump to the cause. Of course, you could use any oil pump that can be bolted to the lid of the container. We tapped the discharge hole for 1/4-inch pipe thread and installed a 1/4 pipe to -6 steel AN fitting in the outlet and then thoroughly cleaned the pump. This will be the discharge side of the system. Our Project Boat Anchor small-block Chevy engine contributed its original oil pump to the We cut and trimmed the original oil pump pickup tube and lengthened it with 1/2-inch rubber hose to place the pickup at the bottom of the reservoir. The return line is also -6 AN, using a bulkhead fitting attached to the lid with a short length of stainless tubing. We cut and trimmed the original oil pump pickup tube and lengthened it with 1/2-inch rubbe The only odd component needed to make this pressure luber work is this 16 x 1.5mm fitting that threads into the block just above the oil filter. This connects the -6 high-pressure hose from the oil pump to the engine's main oil galley. We bought this fitting from Orme Bros. locally, but we found a similar Earl's fitting at Summit Racing. The only odd component needed to make this pressure luber work is this 16 x 1.5mm fitting You will also need some kind of rubber O-ring or Stat-O-Seal to prevent it from leaking, since this is not pipe thread. After the engine is prelubed, the original factory plug can be reinstalled. You will also need some kind of rubber O-ring or Stat-O-Seal to prevent it from leaking, s 1 | 2 | » | View Full Article Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!