How to Install a Hydroboost

We cut the line with a hacksaw. In retrospect, a die grinder and cutoff wheel would have been better, as the hack cut required some extra cleanup.

The kit came with compression-style high-pressure fittings. The braid was pulled back enough to let the olive slide onto the Teflon tube.

The hose was then slipped onto the main fitting and the collar tightened. The trick with these fittings is to keep about 0.060 inch between the collar and the fitting-any tighter than that can damage the fitting.

The hose was installed on the pump. While this will work to get the car down the road, we will be replacing it with a banjo-style fitting to gain more clearance for the headers. The pressure line for the gearbox was made in the same fashion.

The return line starts with this T and adapter on the gearbox. This is the basic setup. The other option, which is suggested, is to weld a second return line into the pump.

The return lines are low pressure, so regular rubber line will work. We wanted to keep everything clean, so we used some power steering hose from Earl's.

The hydroboost uses banjo fittings for the high-pressure lines. The copper washers are important for a proper seal. There needs to be one on both sides of the fitting.

We filled the pump with Royal Purple's Max EZ power steering fluid. Aeration is the supreme enemy (other than dirt) of the hydroboost, so a top-quality fluid that resists aeration is important. The system must be bled with the engine at idle. If the pump and gearbox are used, it is a good idea to flush them before hooking up the hydroboost lines.

The silver canister on the side of the hydroboost is the compressed gas reserve. The install was completed in about three hours from start to finish.