Install A New Convertible Top At Home

Now the top is nice. Just in case we get the car running.

Replacing a convertible top is not overly complicated, but it isn't easy either. It takes a professional 7-8 hours to correctly install and align a top, and that isn't taking into consideration the possible need for the restoration or maintenance of the top frame.

But we think you can do this yourself armed with a few tips, the right tools, and a good set of instructions. You should be able to install a top at home with a couple of buddies in a weekend. To get the insider tricks, we took our project '71 Buick GS convertible to Gary Lette of Redline Auto Sports in Wilson, Oklahoma, so he could give us a hand and make sure it looked good.

This top has certainly seen better days; it's hard to believe it is only seven years old.
The teardown started with removing the weatherstripping. This stuff was leaking pretty badly, so new pieces from SoffSeal were ordered.
The teardown started with removing the weatherstripping. This stuff was leaking pretty bad
The staples in the top were gently pried out. Here, the top staples in the upper curtain bow are carefully removed. The rear curtain was still in good shape, so we were trying to save it. In the end it tore and was replaced.
The staples in the top were gently pried out. Here, the top staples in the upper curtain b

Any top project should begin with an assessment of what parts are needed. Some cars originally came with a vinyl rear window (in upholstery-shop lingo, rear curtain), some came with glass, and some glass-windowed cars often received vinyl replacements after the glass broke. Glass is better but more fragile. Plastic has a tendency to yellow over time. If you are buying your parts from a restoration house such as Year One, ask the staff to recommend the correct style and material. We ended up using the glass replacement back window that came with the top for '68-'72 GM A-bodies. If your A-body is a '64-'67 model, the glass is zipped in; for '68-'72 it is sewn in. In addition to our replacement top, we also picked up a top-pad kit that protects the top from being pinched in the folding mechanism.

Virtually every convertible top is installed in the same fashion. The top is stapled to the frame via tack strips. Depending on the age of the vehicle, the tack strip will be either pressed cardboard ('60s and '70s vehicles) or vinyl rubber (modern convertibles). The replacement solution is vinyl rubber-better because cardboard holds water and the top frame is metal. Owing to this, the rear bow on our '71 Buick GS had several sections of heavy rust. While our piece was savable, it was very close to needing replacement. The old cardboard is very difficult to remove and can take hours, so be prepared.

GM A-body cars use a floating rear bow, so the position was marked using some green tape and a Sharpie. This ensured the bow would be put in the same position. Don't worry if you lose it; most upholstery shops have all the measurements in their guidebooks.
GM A-body cars use a floating rear bow, so the position was marked using some green tape a
There are two bolts holding the rear bow in place. With those removed, the bow was pulled out. We needed to replace the well liner, which is stapled to the bow underneath the rear curtain-the canvas was torn during the removal process. Luckily, we had a new curtain on hand just in case.
There are two bolts holding the rear bow in place. With those removed, the bow was pulled
The original cardboard tack strips were in really bad shape. They do not come out easily, so a flat-blade screwdriver and a mallet are helpful here. We replaced the old stuff with new, vinyl rubber tack strip. The tack strip was pressed into the bow and screws placed every 8 inches from the back side.
The original cardboard tack strips were in really bad shape. They do not come out easily,

The well liner and water trough sustain a lot of abuse over the years, especially on a leaky top. The water trough is made of thin plastic, and the small tabs are easily broken. Most classic convertibles are missing the troughs altogether. After-market versions are usually made of fiberglass with tough metal mounting tabs. The well liner is your trunk's last line of defense against moisture. This piece of vinyl separates the trunk from the interior of the vehicle, often retaining water for days after a storm. Subjected to water and the sun's harsh UV rays, the material eventually breaks down. Replacing this liner usually requires removing the rear window at the lower bow.

If your top is power-operated, the cylinders and pump could probably use some service. If there is a film of hydraulic fluid under the rear seat, then you likely have a leaky cylinder. An O-ring will sometimes fix the problem, as older cylinders were sealed with a simple felt disc. One of our cylinders had a bent rod, so replacement was the only option. At $125 each they are not cheap, but the ability to hit a switch is nice. The pumps are rebuildable in most cases. Kits should be available for most pumps at your local hydraulic supply or electrical motor rebuild shop.

The original cardboard tack strips hold water, which leads to rust. The rear bow had some serious rust issues. It was sandblasted and painted with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. If the rust had been any worse, this bow would not have been usable.
The original cardboard tack strips hold water, which leads to rust. The rear bow had some
With the rear bow out, the water trough was removed. The original plastic trough was in bad shape, so we replaced it with this slick fiberglass piece from Year One. This one has metal mounts, which won't tear out like the original plastic. Don't just leave this piece out-your trunk will end up full of water.
With the rear bow out, the water trough was removed. The original plastic trough was in ba
The top pads were opened up and stapled to the top strips. Here, Gary Lette from Redline Auto Sports sprays adhesive to the vinyl, the foam pad, and the cloth. After the adhesive set for about a minute, the foam was placed over the vinyl, then black cloth wrapped over it, and the factory screws put in to finish the pad installation.
The top pads were opened up and stapled to the top strips. Here, Gary Lette from Redline A

The weatherstripping has to come off to complete the installation of the top, so you might as well replace it. The key here is to use a quality kit like the one we chose from SoffSeal. Unlike cheap kits that don't have pre-drilled holes and OE-type materials, the complete kit from SoffSeal fits as well as or better than the original and should last as long as the new top.

The major tools needed to complete the installation are an air compressor, a good-quality staple gun, and we suggest professional-quality glue from any upholstery supply shop, sprayed from an inexpensive primer gun with a large fluid tip.

So those are the primary parts and some of the tools you will need. When you are done, the top should be tight so there is no sagging, but not too tight or it will pull out or tear at the staples. One trick to getting the top tight is to work with the windshield latches disconnected and the frame elevated about a foot from the windshield. When the job is finished and the frame is dropped to the windshield and latched, the vinyl will be pulled tight. We've found that even professional upholsterers have to remove and restaple a top several times before they get it just right-it is simply part of the process, so don't expect to accomplish it the first time. Don't give up.

The rear curtain comes with a small notch at the bottom indicating the center point. This is just a guide, not to be used as an absolute. The tolerances on these older cars were considerable, and the rear curtains are not all centered.
The rear curtain comes with a small notch at the bottom indicating the center point. This
This step required two sets of hands, one to stretch, the other to staple. Use only a few staples every few inches to keep the curtain tight; they may need to be removed during the adjustment process.
This step required two sets of hands, one to stretch, the other to staple. Use only a few
Using the measurements from the guidebook, we marked the rear curtain with tape. The top was laid over the car, and the rear section was pulled to the marks on both sides. Then the top was fastened with a few staples. Once adjusted, the top gets stapled about every 11/42 inch.
Using the measurements from the guidebook, we marked the rear curtain with tape. The top w

PARTS LIST
DESCRIPTION	PART NO.	SOURCE	PRICE
'68-'72 GM A-body top w/ glass	CMA68WHT	Year One	$287.00
'68-'72 rain gutter	AZ150	Year One	199.00
'68-'72 well liner	WLA68	Year One	62.00
Tacking strip	MN216	Year One	16.60
'68-'72 top boot	CTB68230	Year One	199.00
Top-pad kit	CM754	Year One	33.99
Top cable and spring pair	CM120	Year One	40.95
'68-'72 lift cylinder pair	AM682P	Year One	311.00
Adhesive		upholstery supply	10.00
Spray gun		Lowe's	15.99
Staple gun		Lowe's	59.00
Staples		Lowe's	15.00
Total:		$1,249.53

Every top has cables that run down the sides to keep the sides tight to the frame. The cables stretch over time, so it is a good idea to replace them. Notice the duct tape under the front side of the top; this covers the edge of the top pads and keeps the lines from showing through for a smoother look.
Every top has cables that run down the sides to keep the sides tight to the frame. The cab
The rear bow was installed and pulled out several times while Lette was working out the wrinkles. The quarter-window sections of the top are held in place with the weatherstripping.
The rear bow was installed and pulled out several times while Lette was working out the wr
The top trim piece covers the staples in the rear top bow. This piece was stapled on the inside of the trim. Then, using a hammer and some vinyl scraps to protect the top, we folded the trim over and knocked it down. Make sure the trim piece folds away from the front of the car-freeway speeds will unfold it quickly if it is backward.
The top trim piece covers the staples in the rear top bow. This piece was stapled on the i

After the top was on, the weatherstripping was installed. The SoffSeal kit came complete with the plastic pins preinstalled in the rubber. They all lined up perfectly.
After the top was on, the weatherstripping was installed. The SoffSeal kit came complete w
The well liner was glued down to the rear-seat backing tray, then the steel trim piece was reattached. We installed our well liner with the vinyl side down. A common mistake is leaving it vinyl side up. While it may look right at first, when you open the trunk you see the canvas and not the vinyl.
The well liner was glued down to the rear-seat backing tray, then the steel trim piece was
GM A-body convertibles have a really nasty tendency to tear the tops on the sides near the rear hinges. This is because even properly installed pads will shift over, leaving a hinge exposed, which will snag the top every time. To add some extra protection, we used some cheapie carpet and wrapped each side hinge. Attached with a few zip ties, these flexible pads should keep the top safe and still allow the hinge to fully retract.
GM A-body convertibles have a really nasty tendency to tear the tops on the sides near the

The top needs to sit out in the sun for a day to let it stretch and break in. Redline Auto Sports recommends leaving the top up for about a month so it will maintain the correct shape.
The top needs to sit out in the sun for a day to let it stretch and break in. Redline Auto