Fuel System Plumbing - Braided In Black

This is one of the simpler plumbing jobs you'll encounter, particularly since it only requires a single line to bridge the distance. We started by measuring the span with a tape measure, but many experienced engine plumbers will use string or a bent wire to represent the distance, taking into account the required bends.

Another benefit of Pro-Lite hose is that it can be cut much more easily than stainless braided line. Earl's still recommends wrapping the hose tightly with duct tape at the point to be cut and then using heavy clippers to make the slice. We actually found that an even stroke with a fresh razor blade or craft knife created a precise cut with little or no fraying of the fabric, even without the tape.

Tom Neely of Earl's Store #1 in Lawndale, California, often uses a large, sharp concrete chisel and a block of aluminum for a crisp, clean cut-a practice he developed for servicing stainless braided line at the track. The ultimate objective is to have a clean cut that is square with the hose itself.

Before the fittings can be assembled on the hose, they should be disassembled for lubrication. We used Earl's own liquid lube intended just for this purpose, but Earl's says engine-assembly lube or engine oil are both sufficient. Without the lube, the aluminum fittings can easily gall, possibly ruining them.

The first step in fastening the fitting to the hose is to slip the hose through the fitting's socket while it is removed completely from the rest of the fitting. With stainless braided line, this often requires that the socket be secured in a vise, but the fabric-braided line can be manipulated much more easily. Slip the hose up until it butts against the bottom of the threads inside, then pull it back until there is a 1/16- to 1/8-inch gap between the hose end and the threads. The hose should then be marked at the base of the socket for reference.

Next, the fitting should be clamped in a vise. Obviously, the jaws of a standard vise will gouge the fitting if no preventative measures are taken. We wrapped our fitting in heavy cloth tape (duct tape will do) before tightening down on it. The fitting should be positioned so the threads protrude from the jaws, allowing you to push the hose against the fitting's nipple. Grip the hose (not the fitting) and push while twisting to engage the threads of the socket with those of the fitting.

Once the threads are started, loosen the vice and reposition the hose assembly so that the socket is gripped in the jaws (again, wrapped in tape) and the fitting is accessible. Then the fitting must be tightened into the socket. Using standard wrenches on the fittings will likely mar their finish, so a set of special aluminum AN wrenches is a good investment. Watch the reference mark made earlier to make sure the hose isn't being pushed out, rather than clamped. A slight bit of push is expected, though.

After our flex hose is assembled with fittings, all that remains is to thread it onto the fuel pump and the carb's inlet and snug it up, again using aluminum AN wrenches.

Our carb has internal filters, but for applications requiring an inline filter, Earl's offers an anodized aluminum unit with a removable sintered bronze element and male AN fittings on each end, in either -6 or -8.