For dampers, we're using the new Edelbrock Classic Series version IAS shocks. These offer the same technology as the standard IAS shocks, but are finished in a hammer-tone gray with small, vintage-style Edelbrock logos to better blend in with the underpinnings of classic cars. Applications for most muscle-era cars are now available, along with many late-model vehicles.
The development of the Pro Touring movement and its focus on overall performance has generated lots of coverage in the enthusiast media recently, mostly based on improving the performance of muscle-era vehicles. Since musclecars generally have acceleration covered, most of these upgrades deal with enhancements in handling and braking performance, although lately, much of this seems to involve complete reconstruction of the car's suspension, either by replacing most of its critical parts, like control arms, springs, and bushings, or in some cases, replacing it altogether, as with Corvette or Mustang II systems. But what if you're just looking for something a little more basic for street-going cars on a slimmer budget?
We pondered just such a query recently when trying to improve the road manners of our '67 Camaro. As a running example of a classic, we've avoided completely tearing it apart-you know what that can lead to. Instead, the approach has been to improve the car's performance for increased enjoyment on the street without disabling the car for more than a couple days at a time. Some previous upgrades included a switch to 15x7 Rally wheels with modern radial rubber, close-ratio power steering, and four-wheel disc brakes, all of which made the car much more fun to drive, but it still wallowed in the turns.
The Edelbrock IAS shock absorbers offer a unique approach to suspension damping by using a patented inertia valve. This allows the manufacturer to tune the shock to provide extra firm valving for flat cornering while still providing a compliant ride over harsh bumps, as the inertia valve allows fluid to bypass the standard valve orifices when a sharp compression force is realized. Edelbrock tunes the IAS shocks for each application to optimize both ride and handling. |  |
A shock absorber and sway bar upgrade seemed like a simple solution, and we found that Performance Suspension Components (PSC) offers G-Force sway bar kits for most muscle-era cars along with a selection of performance shocks. We opted for the Edelbrock IAS shocks, which are intended to offer a combination of positive ride quality with significantly improved cornering. Currently, the car combined parts-store front shocks, with (ugh!) air shocks in the rear along with the tiny stock 111/416-inch front sway bar used on all first-generation F-cars (except the '69 Trans Am).
The control arm bushings and ball joints were in good shape, and we didn't want to lower the ride height, making the shock-and-bar approach seem like the perfect plan to improve ride and handling. Since this isn't a serious corner-carver, we didn't test the hard numbers before and after, but the difference was immediately obvious. The IAS shocks tamed the buck-board ride of the stock monoleaf rear springs and work with the larger front sway bar to keep the car acceptably flat in the turns. Installation is relatively simple and was easily handled in a weekend. Take a look.
The front shocks on most conventional rear-drive GM cars are located inside the front coil springs, with an upper stud mount accessed through the engine bay. If you're lucky, the nut will simply unthread from the stud; if the stud spins, you'll have to hold it with a small wrench or Vise grips on the flats at the top of the stud. When all else fails, veteran wrench men put a deep socket on a long extension and push it sideways until the stud snaps. | 
Two bolts retain the bottom of the shocks, threaded into "nutsert" clips. These are frequently broken and replaced with regular nuts that have to be held with a wrench through the coil spring. New clips are available from Classic Industries and other classic GM parts suppliers, and make the job much more pleasant. After the old shock is slid out, the Edelbrock unit is carefully fed in, making sure not to pinch the rubber dust boot. Remember to place a new washer and bushing on the shock shaft before slipping it into place. When the shock is in place, the other new bushing and washer are slipped over the stud from the top, and the new nut is tightened until the bushing just begins to bulge. |
The upper mounts of the rear shocks on first-generation F-cars are accessed through the trunk. This is another stud, but since it's inside the car, rust is usually not an issue. Originally, the ends of the studs were covered with plastic caps, which can now be had as reproductions if you want that factory-fresh appearance. Remove the nuts and the upper bushings. | 
The lower shock mounts use a simple through-bolt. Remove the bolt and the shock should fall down and out of the car. We were able to do this with the wheels on and the car resting on its suspension even with the broad air shocks. The only difficulty we had in installing the new shocks was compressing them against the gas charge to get the lower bolt in. This is less of an issue if the wheels are off the ground and the suspension hangs during the install. The Edelbrock shocks include zip ties to fasten the dust boots after they're in place. |