Chemical StrippingThis approach entails applying a chemical to the surface, which then softens and lifts the paint. After the product has done its thing, the bubbled paint must be scraped off of the surface and discarded. Some of the strippers are thick and must be brushed on while others can be sprayed, either from aerosol cans or pump bottles. The best approach is to strip in small sections, as there is usually a time window when the paint is fully softened. If you wait too long, the bubbled paint will begin to harden again, making it more difficult to scrape off. Like sanding, chemical stripping will take time, and cars with multiple paint jobs will require multiple applications before bare metal is reached. Some local governments consider the scraped paint to be a hazardous material, so proper collection will be expected, rather than simply throwing the remains in the trash. Some strippers are safe to use around rubber and chrome trim while others can damage these items, so be sure you know what you're dealing with before you begin. Also, some stripping products are intended for specific types of paint, like enamel, lacquer, and so on, so shop wisely. There are even some strippers that are designed to remove the paint but leave the primer, but if your car has been through multiple paint jobs, your best bet is to go to metal.
Chemical DippingIf chemical paint-stripping sounds like a good idea for your car but you'd rather remove yourself from the process, consider chemical dipping. As the term implies, the entire body of the car will be dipped in a vat of chemicals to remove all of the finishes, leaving it in bare steel. This service is provided by businesses that specialize in this type of work, and these places usually don't do any of the work to prepare the car for dipping, like removing everything that isn't the body itself. You'll have to handle that yourself, and you'll need to remove everything from the body prior to dipping, including the glass, brightwork, and all interior trim. In fact, even the remaining weatherstripping, seam-sealer, and undercoating will be dissolved. Some car-builders have concerns about chemical dipping, feeling that it can leave inaccessible areas-like the insides of the rocker panels-untreated and vulnerable to future rusting. However, dipping facilities that are equipped for treating car bodies usually pass the shell through multiple vats, including one that should leave an etched coating on the steel, protecting it from moisture. Despite this, you should be prepared to work on the body immediately after it is returned. Leaving the bare body outside after stripping is obviously out of the question.
Dipping is an excellent means of stripping, but it isn't right for every job. Obviously, if you didn't intend to completely dismantle your car and replace all of the weatherstripping, window seals, body seam sealer, and so on, this isn't the option for you. However, if you do select this method, consult with the stripping facility first to find out what they plan to do, and what they expect you to do before dropping the body off. Some dippers will reject a body that's too greasy or has excessive loose rust, as this can contaminate the dip.
BlastingOne of the more popular means of having a car stripped is blasting-the process of using compressed air to shoot media particles at the body to abrade the finish. The most common form of pressure-blasting uses sand. However, sandblasting is not recommended for sheetmetal auto bodies, as the sand can be too aggressive. Even when fine sand is used, there is still an issue of panel warpage, since the abrasion quickly builds heat that can distort the steel.