First, everything that shouldn't be painted should be removed. These shops will mask, but they can't take the time to pay attention to the level of detail that you are seeking. Production shops are accustomed to prepping cars that haven't been stripped or straightened, and panel-straightening is often offered at extra cost, but again, this work is done with time in mind, so finessing the dings and dents into oblivion and hand-sanding to a glass-smooth surface isn't part of the standard program.
If you opt for production paint, have your body ready to go when delivered so that the paint techs only need to wipe it down before applying the paint. You should also put time into deciding the type of paint used. Most production shops use paints that are intended primarily for durability, and often in a limited palate of colors. Not all places will allow you to supply your own paint, but if they do, try to stick to what they are familiar with. As for color choice, if you want a metallic color, go for the two-stage paint (basecoat/ clearcoat) as this will allow for more aggressive wet-sanding afterwards. The wet-sanding can be used to eliminate, or at least reduce, the amount of "orange peel" texture in the finish. Non-metallic colors can be wet-sanded even without clear, so long as there is enough paint on the surface, and production shops tend to lay it down heavy. Don't consider the paint job a failure if it comes out of the shop with heavy orange peel-this is typical of production enamel jobs. Wet-sanding and buffing can fix much of this once the finish is cured.
Collision ShopsThese are shops that handle accident damage, mostly to late-model vehicles that do battle on the streets daily. Although this kind of work isn't sexy in terms of classic cars, the technicians working in these shops are usually quite skilled in all aspects of body refinishing-they have to be to return expensive, late-model vehicles to showroom appearance to satisfy customers and insurance companies. The downside of these shops is that they are traditionally accustomed to charging by the hour, and determining the length of time for a particular job based on industry rate books, rather than actual time spent. This, coupled with high hourly rates, means collision shops can be expensive for restoration bodywork.
However, we have found collision shops that are willing to charge reasonable hourly rates if all they have to do is spray the paint. These shops offer the benefits of high-quality equipment, paint booths, and the essential experience. If your car is truly ready to go, especially if you've masked the parts that weren't removed, you can sometimes get a nice paint job for a bargain price. We've had the most luck with collision shops that were linked to new car dealerships, as these guys don't seem to feel the pressure of overhead costs as acutely as independent shops. Find one that's having a slow spell and you may just strike a deal.
DiyOf course, as with any aspect of a car project, you may want to handle this yourself. This is a decision not to be taken lightly. If you screw up, the paint you've laid down will have to, at a minimum, be sanded flat. This means more block-sanding and more opportunity to introduce ripples and waves to your final finish. If you really screw up, you may have to strip the paint you sprayed completely off, and this can definitely raise the potential for screwing up your nice, straight body surface.
First of all, you'll need a place to paint. In many cities, the days of painting a car in your own garage or makeshift backyard spray booth have been outlawed, not to mention the fact that it's dangerous. Legally, this leaves you with the option of renting a proper spray booth, which can be done in some areas, usually based on an hourly charge or a day rate.