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The Coyote Engine Swap

Putting a New 5.0L into a 1966 Mustang

By Car Craft Staff, Photography by , Grant Peterson,

11. Grant double-checked the measurements against the radiator core support on both sides before going near the welder.

12. Using a set of spacers from the kit, Grant tacked in the rear then the front crossmembers into place and rechecked the measurements.

13. After we were sure that everything was in the correct position, Grant layed down some MIG beads using a technique called stitching, which interconnects small sections of the weld in order to avoid overheating and warping the metal.

14. Every seam was welded, connecting the crossmember to the subframe.

15. Using the scribe mark, Grant centered and welded the upper shock mounts to the Mustang's subframe and top side of the crossmember.

16. This is a new power-steering rack from a 2000-and-later Ford Mustang. It bolts directly to the crossmember and clears the stock Coyote pan.

17. Before we attached any suspension components, we centered the steering rack by counting the turns, lock-to-lock, and dividing it by two and returning it to that point. This allowed us to rough-in the toe so both wheels were straight.

18. The kit includes both the upper and lower control arms and the hardware to install them.

19. The lower portion of the coilovers need to be swapped, from trunion to bushing mounts. Coating the threads with anti-seize makes them easier to adjust after the weight is on the car. The spring seat is used to set ride height after the car is assembled. A good starting point is one half-turn after the spring seat contacts the coil spring.

20. The Wilwood hubs need to be assembled before installation. Torque for the wheel studs is 77 lb-ft, and the seal needs to be installed with a driver.

By Car Craft Staff
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