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Stretching Exercise

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Anytime you tighten a rod bolt in the rod, always support the big end of the rod across the cap to prevent tweaking the rod. This is a Bill Mitchell Hard Core rod vise, but several other companies offer their own versions.

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When tightening a rod bolt in the engine, the best procedure is to use a box-end wrench. We use a cheater bar over the end of the wrench for additional leverage. Be careful not to disturb the rod bolt-stretch fixture when tightening. If so, loosen the bolt and start over.

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ARP's Assembly lube is a special moly-based blended lubricant designed to be a consistent lubricant to minimize variations when torquing rod bolts. The lube comes in containers from a 0.5 oz to a 1-pint bottle.

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It's also a good idea to measure the overall length of each rod bolt in the engine before torquing. Then when the engine comes apart, you can measure the bolts again. If the bolts all measure the same, you can safely reuse them. If one is stretched even just 0.001 inch, immediately replace the bolt.
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Any time that a bolt is replaced in a connecting rod, the big end must be resized to prevent problems. This is because pressing a new bolt in place can easily change the clamp characteristics and drastically affect the rod's concentricity.
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ARP's standard rod bolts (left) are more than sufficient for most street engines and even mild race engines. ARP's next step up is the Wave-Loc bolt (right) that employs the concentric undulations in the shank that reduce the risk of creating a crack from stress risers.

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