We stood in the faint outline of blue that surrounded the Rambler like an upside-down halo greeting the unusually high number of gawkers that came to see the art. "This paint on the decklid looks a little iffy" was the first comment to break the silence. We understand that right after you paint a car, you are going to get attention. So we were prepared for everyone to look down the body and make mental notes of each warble of paint and each unworked paint chip just so they could point them out. Since the price of a good paint job has easily crested $5,000, the expectation of perfection has become absurd. But right after you tell people you did it yourself, for around $1,000, in the garage, they usually stop complaining and you get a little credit. For the CC/Rambler, we chose a dual-stage metallic called Barbados Blue. Because it's a dual-stage, a flat base-color coat is applied followed by a clearcoat. There were some mistakes in the Rambler's basecoat we laid down in last month's issue, and since we hadn't applied the clear, it wasn't too late to fix them. We were also going to use the secret weapon often called the cut-and-buff that from the days before the advent of catalyzed and single- and dual-stage urethanes. Since old-school lacquer used to go down dull, shops would use a pasty compound to knock down high spots and remove imperfections. When that was covered with a huge coat of wax, the job looked great. That same technique can be used on the clearcoat on a two-stage urethane job for the same effect. Here's how to do it. Last month, we sprayed the basecoat. John McGann might have breathed too many fumes, and Glad has burned himself with the shop light one too many times.Last month, we sprayed the basecoat. John McGann might have breathed too many fumes, and G 1. We waited a couple of days for the paint to cure before we attempted any repairs. The first thing we noticed was a huge dent we completely missed. The basecoat can be treated just like the original paint, so we scuffed it with 320-grit paper and prepared the area for Evercoat Metal Glaze filler.1. We waited a couple of days for the paint to cure before we attempted any repairs. The 2. The glaze works just like it would if we were applying it to the original paint or to primer. We let it dry for about 20 minutes, sanded it flat with a long board with 120 to smooth it out, then sanded it with 320 to eliminate scratches.2. The glaze works just like it would if we were applying it to the original paint or to 3. Since we were going to add another basecoat after we made repairs, we used SEM high-build primer to fill in any nicks and scratches we missed the first time. We sanded every repair with 320 on a long board.3. Since we were going to add another basecoat after we made repairs, we used SEM high-bu 4. We had made some major crack repairs in the rear quarter-panel, and it showed after the base was applied. We tackled the remaining waves with a long board and 320 followed by a coat of high-build primer, then more sanding, until we could not feel any waves.4. We had made some major crack repairs in the rear quarter-panel, and it showed after th 5. The cheaper way to do this is to primer the entire car, wet block-sand, then repeat until you are happy. Since we only had a few mistakes we weren't willing to live with, we applied color, then blocked, then added more color. The wet-sanding process at this stage will reveal every flaw on the car, so be patient.5. The cheaper way to do this is to primer the entire car, wet block-sand, then repeat un Product ListDescriptionPRICECraftsman 6-inch bench-top buffer$99.00Craftsman compound buffing set5.99Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish7.14Craftsman 6-inch buffing wheel6.29Craftsman 8-inch buffing wheel14.99Eagle Waterproof Abrasive Paper, superfine 1,200-grit 50-sheet pack21.323M Super Duty rubbing compound, 1-quart bottle15.193M Superbuff buffing pad 5701, 9-inch, two-sided26.203M Superbuff polishing pad 5704, 9-inch, two-sided28.31Meguiar's Mirror Glaze swirl-free polish, 32-ounce bottle15.49 6. After we had fixed our mistakes, we covered them with high-build primer, wet-sanded the repairs with 600-grit paper, then wet-sanded the entire car with 1,000 before we rolled it back into the paint booth for another two coats. After allowing 24 hours for the paint to cure, we were ready for the first coat of clear.6. After we had fixed our mistakes, we covered them with high-build primer, wet-sanded th 7. The DuPont ChromaClear is sold along with the color as a system. We could have opted for DuPont's cheaper Nason brand, but we've been told to spend the good money on the clearcoat. Ask for the data sheet when you buy the paint; it will give you a lot of little pointers about how to get the two to work together.7. The DuPont ChromaClear is sold along with the color as a system. We could have opted f 8. To shoot the clear, we switched the gun tip to a smaller 1.5 tip because the 1.8 that we used for the color would have caused runs. The basecoat didn't need to go on thick to get a smooth look, but the clearcoat did. Be careful; a clearcoat that is too thick means more work with a buffer and compound. You have to learn the balance between spraying too thin a clearcoat and too thick to avoid a bunch of runs.8. To shoot the clear, we switched the gun tip to a smaller 1.5 tip because the 1.8 that 9. After we shot two coats of clear, we let the paint dry for a couple of days before we went back to color-sand.9. After we shot two coats of clear, we let the paint dry for a couple of days before we 10. At first, we were kind of shy about hitting our gleaming topcoat with sandpaper, but it needed to be done. Light bouncing off the peaks and valleys in the clear cause the orange-peel look that we were trying to eliminate. The idea is to sand off enough paint with 1,000-grit to leave a smooth surface. The area that has been color-sanded should look totally deglossed.10. At first, we were kind of shy about hitting our gleaming topcoat with sandpaper, but 11. It's hard to tell when the texture is completely removed from the paint unless the car is dry, so sand, dry, and check before moving to the next panel. Once the car is totally sanded to a dull finish, it's time to bring it back.11. It's hard to tell when the texture is completely removed from the paint unless the ca 12. For this job, you'll need a rotary polisher that spins at least 1,500 rpm, a good wool cutting pad, and a fine wool or foam buffing pad. The good tools can be found at the paint-supply store, so invest while you are buying the paint. Our buffer is a Makita that we bought from a paint-supply store nearly nine years ago. The thick wool pad is for cutting sanding scratches out of the clearcoat. To avoid burning the paint, be cautious around edges where the paint is thinner and make sure the pad is rotating off of or away from seams and edges instead of toward them. It creates less heat and friction.12. For this job, you'll need a rotary polisher that spins at least 1,500 rpm, a good woo 13. Work the buffer across the surface of the paint, picking up compound as you go and working the area until it starts to shine.13. Work the buffer across the surface of the paint, picking up compound as you go and wo 14. This is a good illustration of what 3M Super Duty rubbing compound and a good wool pad can do. Notice that you can see some orange peel left in the area we wet-sanded but not in the buffed area. Now do the whole car.14. This is a good illustration of what 3M Super Duty rubbing compound and a good wool pa 15. To make a point, we finished the trunk area with Meguiar's Swirl Free polishing compound. It takes care of small scratches, spider webs, and swirl marks. Now do the whole car again.15. To make a point, we finished the trunk area with Meguiar's Swirl Free polishing compo 16. What's missing in most paint-and body-stories is what to do with the trim. If you are building a '69 Camaro, buy new trim from Year One or Goodmark. If you are restoring a car that has little or no aftermarket support, you'll need to save your trim. We pulled ours off using a set of tools from Eastwood then gave them a thorough scrubbing with dish soap and water.16. What's missing in most paint-and body-stories is what to do with the trim. If you are 17. To bring back the original luster to the trim pieces, we used a Craftsman 6-inch buffer and wheel compound. The blue is for cutting built-up road detritus, and the white is a finer grit designed to take out any fine scratches. We found that Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish worked to get a bright shine from the parts after we cut them with compound.17. To bring back the original luster to the trim pieces, we used a Craftsman 6-inch buff 18. We taped the trim to a 2x4 so it wouldn't get ripped out of our hands and damaged. Mark each wheel with the compound you are using and never mix them; always hold the part with the wheel spinning away from you and off the edge so it won't catch and bend the trim. We used two 6-inch wheels for the compounds and an 8-inch wheel to buff the trim with the polish.18. We taped the trim to a 2x4 so it wouldn't get ripped out of our hands and damaged. Ma 19. We did manage to mangle one piece of trim when we tried to get the driprail molding off. Fortunately, Galvin's Rambler Parts had one in stock and sent it to us for the final shoot. His advice? "If you are going to remove the driprail, get behind it with a flat blade, move really slowly, and go 1 inch at a time."19. We did manage to mangle one piece of trim when we tried to get the driprail molding o 20. We are going to get the front bumper rechromed and wait a month before we do any waxing. Next up, rearend parts and more drag racing.20. We are going to get the front bumper rechromed and wait a month before we do any waxi SOURCES Powerbuilt Tools/Alltrade Long Beach CA alltradetools.com Sears/Craftsman DuPont www.Dupont.com Galvin's AMC Rambler Parts Lodi CA ramblerparts.com Eastwood 263 Shoemaker Road Pottstown PA 19464 1-800-345-1178 www.eastwoodco.com SEM semproducts.com Enjoyed this Post? 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