350 V8 - Cheap Street Chevelle

In the October '94 issue of Car Craft, we introduced our Cheap Street Chevelle. The logic behind Cheap Street was to build up a nice street machine for limited cash outlay.

We skipped all the fancy gee-gaws and stuck to the basics by installing tried-and-true parts including an Edelbrock Performer dual-plane manifold, Cyclone headers, a dual exhaust system with DynoMax mufflers, a PAW camshaft and lifter kit, a Performance Distributors HEI distributor, Jacobs ignition wires and a pair of World Products S/R Torquer cylinder heads. In addition, we rebuilt the stock 750cfm Quadrajet carb, installed a Turbo Action shift improvement kit and swapped in Drive Train Specialties 3.73:1 gears and an Eaton Top Spec limited-slip carrier.

When we bought Cheap Street Chevelle, it didn't run. After some work and a tune-up, we garnished a best e.t. of 16.62 seconds at 83.23 mph. By the time we completed our upgrades (featured in three issues of CC), we had our rig running 13.89 at 96.70 mph--not bad for a car with 140K miles. Just before we arrived at the dragstrip, we heard a loud knocking in the bottom end, but we flogged our car anyway.

It did run the 13-second e.t. goal, but we had hurt the worn-out stock bottom end in the process. Editor Schifsky told the staff to build a new bottom end, but what the bottom end consisted of was up to our readers. We got stacks of mail offering advice, but the overwhelming request was to reuse the 350 V8 and install a low-buck bottom end kit (crank, rods and pistons), while reusing all of the top end goodies (heads, intake, carb, and so on). Jim Hutchins from South Point, Ohio, wrote, "I understand that your Chevelle has a rod knock. I also understand that it is supposed to be a low-buck street machine that will earn you some respect. I, like a lot of readers, have bills and a mortgage and can't afford a lot of high-dollar upgrades. Install a bottom end rebuild kit with good bearings, low-buck forged pistons, good rod bolts and a high-volume oil pump. The cost of expensive machine work is out of reach for most of us, so please try to keep it to a minimum." Jim went on to tell us that his project car has many of the same motor mods that we had on our Chevelle, but like us, he had spun a rod bearing and needed a rebuild. Jim ended the letter by saying, "I am patiently waiting to see how your engine runs so I can copy it, hopefully with great success." Well Jim, ask and you shall receive.

We called Performance Automotive Warehouse (PAW) and ordered a flat-top piston crankshaft special. The kit is normally $384 with cast pistons, but we opted to upgrade to forged pistons, so our kit cost $464. The forged pistons allowed us the option of adding nitrous oxide injection (or other similar upgrades) at a later date. We took our cylinder block to Skercevic Automotive Machine in Ventura, California, to have it cleaned, bored and honed. In addition, we spent a few extra bucks to have the crank assembly balanced. Once the engine was rebuilt, we took it to Duttweiler Performance to test its power output on a dynamometer. We realize that dyno-testing an engine is probably out of the price range of most readers, but we did it to show you what horsepower you can expect when using an engine combo such as ours. Heck, if you like the power figures, simply use the same parts we did and you'll be ready for action. The peak power numbers we got were perfect (read Duttweiler Dyno sidebar in this story), the engine had a smooth power band, and our combo had a nice musclecar idle.

Besides the bottom end engine rebuild, installing a new torque converter was our only other major upgrade. Our stock unit would barely stall up to 1500 rpm, which was killing our e.t.'s at the dragstrip. We upgraded to a TCI Break-A-Way 11-inch torque converter that was a direct bolt-on and gave us a 2600-2800rpm stall speed--perfect for street/strip use.

While the engine was out of the Chevelle, we scrubbed the engine bay to remove all of the grease and grime that had built up over the years. Then we detailed our engine bay with VHT paint. In addition, our underhood wires resembled a rat's nest, so we repaired and routed wires so they functioned properly. Once the engine bay was detailed, we installed our rebuilt engine. Directly thereafter, we cruised Cheap Street Chevelle to the dragstrip, ran dozens of back-to-back runs, and drove to a cruise-in for lunch. The only downfall was that the springs from the worn-out seat were poking us in the butt. We'll fix that in the coming months with a low-buck stock interior kit. Is there something else you'd like to see? If so, write: Cheap Street Chevelle, Car Craft magazine, 6420 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90048.

After pulling the engine from...        read full caption After pulling the engine from our Chevelle, we completely disassembled it to check its condition before taking it to the machine shop. Make sure the block isn't cracked, and check the condition of the various bolt holes--make sure none of them are stripped.	The stock crankshaft from...        read full caption The stock crankshaft from our 140K-plus-mile 350 V8 was in bad shape. Notice all of the pits and cracks in the journals. It was just a matter of time before the bottom end self-destructed.	While none of the rod bearings...        read full caption While none of the rod bearings actually spun, they were severely warped and gouged. The condition of this rod/bearing combo was representative of the entire bottom end of the engine. Not good.
We took our engine block to...        read full caption We took our engine block to Skercevic Automotive Machine to have it cleaned, bored and honed. Even though the engine had a lot of miles, the cylinders were in decent condition. All that was required was a 0.030-inch overbore to clean up the cylinders. When machining a block, always opt for the minimum amount of overbore so more material is left for a future engine rebuild.	Our crankshaft and rods were...        read full caption Our crankshaft and rods were complete junk, so we used a low-buck crank kit from Performance Automotive Warehouse (PAW). Our $464 kit came with forged aluminum pistons, moly rings, reconditioned connecting rods fitted with chrome-moly rod bolts, rod and main bearings, and a custom-ground cast-iron crankshaft. If you order the kit with cast pistons, the cost is about $80 less, but we recommend using forged pistons, in case you want to add nitrous or a supercharger later on.	Once our block was back from...        read full caption Once our block was back from the machine shop, we used sanding items from Standard Abrasives to deburr different aspects of our block. Here, we use a cartridge roll to smooth out the pan rails and knock off minor casting flash that could lead to improper gasket sealing. You may also wish to deburr areas such as the lifter valley to aid in oil flowback.
Even though the block has...        read full caption Even though the block has been cleaned (usually by hot tank), always use a tap to clean out and/or straighten the bolt hole threads. You'll be amazed at the amount of gunk that will be removed. With clean threads, the bolts will easily thread in when parts are installed.	We recommend using a cross-buff...        read full caption We recommend using a cross-buff (available from Standard Abrasives) to fine-hone the lifter bores. In addition, the cross-buff deburrs the oil galley holes in the lifter bore. A clean, non-burred lifter bore ensures a long life for the lifters.	Before installing the crankshaft,...        read full caption Before installing the crankshaft, thoroughly clean it to remove any dirt and shavings that may be left over from the machining process. Running a small bottle brush through the oil holes in the crankshaft journals removes any small metal shavings that are hiding. If you don't clean the crank properly, chances are you will ruin the bearings within a short time period (sometimes even upon engine break-in).
The rings in our PAW engine...        read full caption The rings in our PAW engine kit are sized and end-gapped to match the 0.030-inch-overbore forged pistons, but always double-check to ensure that clearances and fit are correct. We used a feeler gauge to check ring end gap--everything was spot-on.	Many times rebuilt rods will...        read full caption Many times rebuilt rods will have their markings ground off during the machining and/or balancing process. Thus, we re-marked each rod and rod cap to ensure they wouldn't get mixed up at any time during the assembly (or at a later date if we had to tear the engine apart).	We installed our new main...        read full caption We installed our new main bearings (part of our PAW kit) and then installed the crankshaft. Always tighten the main bolts progressively, in sequence, to the proper torque spec. Our main bolts were torqued to 75 lb-ft.
Many people install the crankshaft...        read full caption Many people install the crankshaft and never check the endplay. If endplay is too tight or too loose, you could hurt the bearings or create unwanted friction in the reciprocating assembly. Always check endplay with the mains torqued to spec. Our crankshaft endplay measured 0.009 inch, which is fine. In general, if the clearances are less than 0.007 inch or more than 0.018 inch, problems may result.	When rebuilding an engine,...        read full caption When rebuilding an engine, always use new freeze plugs. We opted for brass freeze plugs, which are a few dollars more than steel plugs, but the brass won't rust out through the years. Our plugs, from Pioneer (available through PAW), were easy to install. You can install them dry, but you should use a sealant to ensure a leak-free fit. Some guys even use Loctite Red to seal the plugs, claiming they'll never leak.	Installing the moly rings...        read full caption Installing the moly rings on the pistons is easy, but don't stretch them too much, or they could break. Once the rings are on (including the oil rings), be sure to phase them properly--usually with the end gaps 180 degrees apart.
Just before installing each...        read full caption Just before installing each piston in its bore, oil the piston's side skirts to prevent any scuffing and/or seizing. Then, carefully slide the piston in the bore, making sure the rod end or rod bolts don't scuff the cylinder bore as the rod/piston combo goes in. Here, we are using (and highly recommend) a tapered ring compressor from Tavia Machine Company.	Once the rods and pistons...        read full caption Once the rods and pistons are installed, torque the rod bolts to spec (45 lb-ft, in our case). Then, on each journal, check the rod side clearance. In general, you should have a minimum clearance of 0.010 inch or problems may result.	Although the parts might be...        read full caption Although the parts might be sold as "matched," always double-check clearances to avoid mishaps. Here, we are checking true top dead center (TDC) and measuring the deck height. Deck height is the distance that the piston is below or above the top surface of the block.
Before installing the camshaft,...        read full caption Before installing the camshaft, always apply plenty of cam lube. Without enough lube, chances are the camshaft will go flat (destroy itself) on engine startup. We installed a new PAW camshaft in an earlier stage of our Cheap Street Chevelle buildup, but since we upped our compression, and since we are installing a higher stall speed torque converter, we wanted to run a different camshaft grind. This time we installed a 0.462-inch intake/0.482-inch-lift exhaust camshaft from Competition Cams (PN 275DEH-10). The advertised duration is 275 degrees intake and 277 degrees exhaust with 110 degrees lobe separation, which should deliver a good rumpity-rump idle without sacrificing streetability.	Installing a camshaft without...        read full caption Installing a camshaft without hurting the cam lobes or the cam bearings can be tricky. We recommend using a cam install tool, such as this unit from Tavia, because it gives you a good grasp on the camshaft. Plus, your hands won't get all slimy with cam lube when you use a cam install tool.	Because most street machiners...        read full caption Because most street machiners are on a budget, they opt to reuse many items, like the oil pan. If you do reuse the oil pan, thoroughly clean out the sludge buildup inside. In addition, check for any cracks or dents that could wreak havoc later on. If the pan is in bad shape, you may wish to update to a new oil pan, such as from Milodon. Milodon pans can even be ordered with special oil-control baffles, if that suits your fancy.
Even if you are doing a budget...        read full caption Even if you are doing a budget rebuild, don't skimp on the gaskets. Running no-name or cheapo gaskets will only cause trouble later on. On this engine, Fel-Pro head gaskets (PN 1003) were used. These gaskets will handle the high-rpm street/strip rigors that our engine will endure. In addition, if you can muscle up a few extra bucks, invest in quality head bolts such as ARP offers.	We cleaned up and reused the...        read full caption We cleaned up and reused the World Products S/R Torquer cylinder heads that were installed in an earlier segment (Part III) of the Cheap Street Chevelle buildup. Once the heads are clean, paint them with a quality engine paint like VHT's. The S/R heads are a cost-effective (actually cheaper) alternative to rebuilding a stock set of heads. Plus, the heads flow better than stock units, have hardened exhaust seats and feature 2.02/1.60-inch valves. Once the heads are torqued to spec (65 lb-ft in our case), install and adjust the rocker arm/pushrod combo. With the lifter on the cam lobe's base circle (piston at TDC firing), twist the pushrod with your fingers as you tighten the rocker arm nut. As you start to feel drag on the pushrod, you've reached zero lash. At zero lash, tighten the rocker arm nut approximately three quarters of a turn more.	Besides pre-lubing the camshaft,...        read full caption Besides pre-lubing the camshaft, always add plenty of lube to the lifters before installing them. The lube prevents the lifters from scuffing or seizing when the engine is started.
With the cylinder heads in...        read full caption With the cylinder heads in place and the rocker arms adjusted, install the intake manifold. We reused our Edelbrock Performer dual-plane aluminum intake manifold, because we had great results with it previously. We opted to use a Fel-Pro reusable thermostat housing gasket in case we needed to change thermostats at a later date. The gaskets provide a perfect seal without use of messy sealants.	Our good friend Jim Sanborn...        read full caption Our good friend Jim Sanborn put the finishing touches on our engine buildup. Sanborn re-installed the Performance Distributors HEI distributor and the Jacobs spark plug wires that we bolted on in Part III (CC, December '94), but he added a set of Made For You spark plug wire holders to avoid any burning mishaps. The stock Quadrajet 750cfm carb was also reused, along with a fresh Fel-Pro carb-to-intake gasket. Notice the good looks of the various pulleys and brackets. Just because you're on a tight budget doesn't mean that you can't clean up and repaint the parts so they look good.	Before installing the rebuilt...        read full caption Before installing the rebuilt engine, the engine bay was thoroughly scrubbed to remove the 25 years' accumulation of gunk. Then the engine bay was treated to a bath in VHT paint. Sanborn guides our low-buck PAW engine back into the engine bay.
Although we tried to stick...        read full caption Although we tried to stick to a tight budget with our engine rebuild, we upgraded to (and highly recommend) a new oil pump. In addition, our stock flexplate and harmonic balancer were shot (the balancer had spun a quarter of an inch), so we upgraded to new units. The flexplate is made by Pioneer, and the balancer is a new GM unit. All of these parts are available from PAW.	Even though we installed DTS...        read full caption Even though we installed DTS 3.73:1 gears in place of the stock 2.73:1 gears, we didn't pick up the e.t. gain that we hoped for, because our stock torque converter would only allow us to stall to 1500 rpm. The low-rpm converter was killing our launch as well as our e.t.'s. Thus, while the engine was out, we ordered a new torque converter from TCI. The new 11-inch Break-A-Way converter (PN 241502) features furnace-brazed fins and needle bearings and stalls between 2600 and 2800 rpm. Plus, the unit was a direct bolt-on.	Check this out. Avid Car Craft...        read full caption Check this out. Avid Car Craft reader Joseph Reyes from San Lorenzo, California, sent us this barrage of goodies for our Chevelle. During the first three installments of our Cheap Street Chevelle buildup, Joe noticed that our side marker light was busted, we were missing some emblems, we had burned some spark plug wires and that our stock valve covers were all bent up. Thus, he sent us some used Chevelle parts from his garage and some Thermo-Tec header wrap, and he even included a new (still in the bag) GM dome light lens, which we were missing. We installed most of the parts--check out the valve covers in the completed engine shot! Heck, he even included Polaroid snapshots of a few tech tips along with a photo of his street machine. Notice the 307 emblems; he wants us to run a mega-cube, mega-hp small-block but tell everybody it's "only a 307." Thanks for the goods, Joe. A note to our other readers, though: We don't need any other parts. Thanks.