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Distributor DiscrepancyI have a '79 Ford F100 truck with 2WD. It had a 351M and C6 trans, but when I bought it the trans and engine were shot so I'm swapping in a 302 and an AOD transmission from an '84 Lincoln Town Car. I have run into a problem with the distributor. The distributor shaft on the Lincoln is 11/42-inch longer than the earlier 302 distributor I want to use to retain the truck's ignition system. The problem is finding an oil-pump driveshaft that is a half-inch longer, because the early distributor is shorter. My parts guy tells me all the shafts have the same part number, so they must be the same length.
Will I have to custom-make one or is there one available? Is there a shaft from another engine application I could use?Travis BrimRichmond, IN
As far as we can tell, your parts guy is right-there is only one part number for a Ford 302 oil-pump driveshaft, because there is only one length for this part. Our subsequent research has confirmed that distributors for the small-block Ford are totally interchangeable, save for differences in drive-gear materials, though that only becomes an issue when dealing with roller-cam engines, which yours isn't. It almost sounds as if you're encountering the typical Ford distributor installation obstacle: interfacing the oil-pump driveshaft with the distributor shaft. Often, when dropping a Ford distributor in, the housing will slip into the engine block almost all the way, but will stop just about a 11/42-inch shy of fully seated. The shaft is hex-shaped, as is the corresponding hole in the distributor, and while this might lead you to believe that the two should slip together with ease, in reality, they often have to be perfectly aligned to merge smoothly. Try rotating your pump shaft a few degrees-you can use a 51/416-inch socket on an extension, just make sure it doesn't fall off into the oil pan. Also make sure to lubricate the bushings on the distributor housing, as they tend to bind in the block on Ford V-8s.
Wagon MasterI am resto-modding a '64 Ford Falcon wagon to use as a daily driver. I plan to run a mild 5.0 H.O. engine and T5 manual five-speed trans in place of the wheezing 170ci six and Ford-o-Matic two-speed. I am also going to be running an 8.8 rear axle out of an Explorer with 3.55 gears and a limited-slip differential. To get ready for the swap, I have a couple questions. First, what are the differences between polyurethane, graphite-impregnated urethane, Midolyn, rubber, and so on? What are the advantages of each?
Second, a local wrecking yard has a '65 Mercury Comet wagon that was an original V-8/auto with power steering. I know in order to swap a 5.0 into my car I have to swap over to V-8 steering linkages. The Merc's engine and tranny have been pulled along with the power-steering pump. Can I use the pump from my 5.0 donor car with the '65's steering cylinder? What parts should I pull from the Merc? Other than the pump and lines, the steering seems to be complete.
When I do the suspension rebuild, I plan to throw a set of Granada discs and a power brake booster from a Geo on at the same time. What considerations should I have when I am ordering the front suspension rebuild kit from the supplier? Should I order Falcon tie-rod ends and ball-joints or do I get Granada pieces?Marc SchatmeierCamarillo, CA