Learn How To Paint A Car - Car Craft Magazine

Every April, we paint a car, and this time around, we made an honest girl out of our '67 Mustang coupe, which made its first appearance in CC exactly two years ago. To refresh your memory, we picked up this lowly I-6/C4 commuter from its previous owner for $2,000. And it looked like what you'd expect from a 40-year-old car at that price. There were several layers of paint, some rust spots, and someone in the recent past was a regular practitioner of the "park by feel" method-reverse till you hit something, forward till you hit something, inch back, and ... you're good. As you'd expect, the front and rear of the car had more creases and folds than the entire cast of The Biggest Loser.

Over the last few years, we've featured mostly garage jobs for our paint stories, so this year we decided on a different approach. We sent the car to professionals, or at least professionals- in-training. We phoned our buddy Brian Ferre: bodyman, pinstriper, custom painter, and full-time instructor at Los Angeles Trade Technical College, who offered his services and those of his Collision Repair and Refinishing students. Cool-we'd have a team of builders just like the rich guys do.

The students killed themselves over the course of two and a half months and, with a lot of help from the guys at Year One, Goodmark, and The Eastwood Co, the result is a body and paint job much better than we'd even asked for. Watch and read as the saga unfolds.

Assessment
Like any major project, the first step in your paint job is to determine your desired outcome. Is this going to be a show car, a weekend cruiser, your daily driver, or a demolition derby competitor?

Our Mustang is going to be a track car and cruise-night driver, so it doesn't need to win any awards for looks. Having determined that, we decided against stripping the car to bare metal and planned instead to rough it up and straighten it out prior to its new coat of paint.

Disassembly
Nothing earth-shattering here-taking things apart is usually easier than putting them back together. Devise a system to keep things organized when the time does come to reassemble. In our case, the students put fasteners and small parts in manila envelopes, marking the contents on the outside. It is also helpful to take pictures of things as they come apart. It will reduce your pile of mystery bolts left over after the job is done.

Dent Pulling
The Mustang's hood was munched pretty badly, and since we had our eyes on a tasty-looking shelby-style fiberglass hood, we tossed the stock one, eliminating the need to metal-finish it. However, the rear lower valance was hopeless, so we ordered a replacement piece from Goodmark Industries.
Dent Pulling The Mustang's hood was munched pretty badly, and since we had our eyes on a
Replacement taillight panels are available, but Ferre wanted his students to take on the task of straightening out the one on our Mustang. With the bumper, fuel tank, and taillights removed, it was easier to read the damage. Notice the two large dents framing the area where the license plate would be? That is where the initial impact occurred-pushing the panel up and in, causing the second dent to form next to the fuel-filler opening.
Replacement taillight panels are available, but Ferre wanted his students to take on the t
To straighten this panel, we needed to force the dent out in the opposite manner it occurred. The students pushed the car onto the school's Chief EZ Liner frame machine and mounted a pair of clamps in the area of the initial impact. Ferre made an initial pull.
To straighten this panel, we needed to force the dent out in the opposite manner it occurr

With tension still on the chains, Ferre struck the backside of the secondary dent to relieve the tension in the sheet metal in that area. Once the tension there is relieved, the initial dent can be fixed. In other words, all the dents in the taillight panel need to be worked out together rather than treated as three separate dents to be hammered out one at a time.
With tension still on the chains, Ferre struck the backside of the secondary dent to relie
With the chains off the car, Ferre checked the work so far. He showed the students that the most efficient work isn't necessarily the fastest. Taking time to check progress often helps avoid mistakes. Also, with a panel as badly damaged as ours, you'll need to look for clues to figure out how the it's supposed to look. From the factory, the taillight panel on our Mustang had a strong inverse vertical curve, but it also curves in slightly along the horizontal line above the bumper mounts. This is important to know because the temptation would be to pull until that line is straight. Instead, we needed to square up the gas tank opening in the trunk floor just behind the taillight panel, leaving a slight inward horizontal curve at the bumper mounts.
With the chains off the car, Ferre checked the work so far. He showed the students that th

The chains went back for one final pull. Please note that you don't need your own frame machine to do this work, so you can stop filling out that loan application. Be creative. The key is to figure out how to apply force to the dent in the opposite direction of the force that created it. This can also be done by pushing on the dent with a hydraulic bottle jack or a Port-O-Power. We've even heard of people chaining the car to tie-downs in the garage floor and pulling on it with a pickup truck.
The chains went back for one final pull. Please note that you don't need your own frame ma
Be aware that the force of an impact like the one to the back of our Mustang can travel through the car's entire body, especially in a unibody car. Check the whole car for ripples and waviness, paying close attention to the quarterpanels, sail panels and roof. Also, look for misalignment of the doors and body gaps. The Mustang had two small creases in the left quarter-panel that were a direct result of the hit to the rear. Ferre hammered them out while the chains were still attached to the rear of the car.
Be aware that the force of an impact like the one to the back of our Mustang can travel th
The students took the Mustang off the frame machine when the taillight panel was close enough to be finished by hand. At this point, the front fenders were removed and inspected. since there was only minor surface rust, they were cleaned up with a wire brush, and coated with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator.
The students took the Mustang off the frame machine when the taillight panel was close eno

Meanwhile, the students block-sanded the rest of the car with 80-grit sandpaper. Though the Mustang had at least three paint jobs already, the paint was in pretty good shape-no peeling or flaking, so we could paint over it rather than stripping it all off.
Meanwhile, the students block-sanded the rest of the car with 80-grit sandpaper. Though th
We treated the old paint as if it were a layer of fillerprimer. Block sanding it took most of the waviness out of the sides of the car. You can see by the different colors around the door handle openings and around the side vents where the high and low spots from the previous paint jobs were.
We treated the old paint as if it were a layer of fillerprimer. Block sanding it took most

At this point, the dents had become smaller and harder to see. Ferre showed the students how to feel for the remaining high and low spots.
At this point, the dents had become smaller and harder to see. Ferre showed the students h
When the Goodmark replacement valance panel arrived, the guys used it to check their repair of the taillight panel. It was almost a perfect fit. The taillight panel only needed a little more massaging with a hammer and dolly to get all the attachment points to line up with the new valance.
When the Goodmark replacement valance panel arrived, the guys used it to check their repai
We also got new door hinges from Year One. Once they were installed, the door gaps were aligned. To get properly fitting body gaps, you need to align the doors first (since the quarter-panels are fixed on most cars), then align the fenders to the doors, then finally align the hood to the fenders.
We also got new door hinges from Year One. Once they were installed, the door gaps were al

After receiving the fiberglass hood from Year One, we cleaned it with a water-based solvent to remove the mold-release agents-chemicals used to remove a fiberglass piece from the mold it was formed in. If these release agents aren't removed, they will contaminate the paint job, possibly causing lifting or bubbling as the paint cures. After that, the guys sanded the hood lightly with 150-grit sandpaper on a dual-action (DA) sander, scuffing the surface in preparation for filler and primer.
After receiving the fiberglass hood from Year One, we cleaned it with a water-based solven
Body Filler
Once the taillight panel had been straightened out to the point where there were only a few small waves left, it was ready for body filler-often generically referred to as Bondo. LATTC student Omar Holloway ground off all the paint where filler would be applied with a 36-grit disc on an angle grinder. The paint had been left on until now because it's easier to see dents in a glossy, painted surface than it is on bare metal.
Body Filler Once the taillight panel had been straightened out to the point where there w

Ferre then demonstrated the proper way to mix and apply body filler. scoop out the amount you'll need using a stir stick or Bondo spreader.
Ferre then demonstrated the proper way to mix and apply body filler. scoop out the amount
Add the correct amount of hardener as recommended on the product's instructions. The correct ratio of hardener to filler is often described as looking like a bird dropping.
Add the correct amount of hardener as recommended on the product's instructions. The corre

Mix everything together thoroughly until it shows an even color.
Spread the filler in the repair area using enough pressure to keep from trapping air bubbles. When working in areas with body lines or sharp curves, start at the peak and spread the filler away from it. notice how Ferre spread the filler up and away from the horizontal line where the bumper mounts.
Spread the filler in the repair area using enough pressure to keep from trapping air bubbl
Here's a cool timesaving tool. Holloway used a file often called a cheese grater to cut the high spots of the filler just before it is fully hardened. Once fully dry, the filler is extremely hard and can require a serious workout just sanding through the spreader lines. use a cheese grater to cut down the high spots in the filler while it still feels tacky, but no longer squishy. It will save a lot of time and effort.
Here's a cool timesaving tool. Holloway used a file often called a cheese grater to cut th

The proper method for sanding filler is to use 80-grit sandpaper on a sanding block, following up with 150-grit. Ferre showed the students how to use the different sizes of sanding blocks to fit the various contours of the car. To avoid sanding grooves and flat spots into the repair, sand in an X-shaped pattern using the longest block that will fit in the area being sanded. It is also helpful to spray a guide coat-a very light misting of a contrasting paint color from an aerosol can. Then sand until the guide coat is gone.
The proper method for sanding filler is to use 80-grit sandpaper on a sanding block, follo
The right-side quarter-panel was sanded properly and ready for a coat of metal glaze, also referred to as finishing putty. It's like body filler, but lighter and thinner, and used as a "topcoat" over body filler. It's easier to sand and therefore more useful in final-sanding surfaces with compound curves or complex shapes. It's also less porous than body filler and shows fewer pinholes when painted over. notice the light green color of the glaze on the taillight panel.
The right-side quarter-panel was sanded properly and ready for a coat of metal glaze, also

With all the waves sanded out and dings filled in, the car was ready to be masked for its first coat of sealer. First, it was blown off with compressed air and wiped down thoroughly with solvent.
With all the waves sanded out and dings filled in, the car was ready to be masked for its
To best prevent overspray from getting to parts you don't want painted, Ferre recommended using large sections of masking paper, creasing and folding them to follow curves and bends, such as around the windshield. The fewer seams you have, the less risk you run of having the tape lift while you're spraying.
To best prevent overspray from getting to parts you don't want painted, Ferre recommended
The car was then pushed into the spray booth and the wheels were masked off.

Second year student Jason Park was elected to spray the first coats of sealer. To prep the car, he hit it again with another blast of compressed air, wiping it with a tack cloth.
Second year student Jason Park was elected to spray the first coats of sealer. To prep the
Because several areas of the car were sanded to bare metal, those spots need a coat of etching primer or a Direct To Metal (DTM) epoxy primer sealer like DuPont's V2970s. We went with the DTM sealer because we had a little left over from the last car we painted.
Because several areas of the car were sanded to bare metal, those spots need a coat of etc

We originally planned to just spray the areas of bare metal, but since we had enough of the DTM sealer, Park sprayed the whole car with one coat using a DeVilbiss High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) spray gun and a 1.4 fluid tip.
We originally planned to just spray the areas of bare metal, but since we had enough of th
Park demonstrated the proper spray technique. Hold the paint gun perpendicular to the surface being painted, at a distance of about the width between the tips of your thumb and pinky as if you were making the "hang-loose" sign. Overlap each pass by 50 percent, making long passes across the width of each panel or sections of panels, as in the case of the side of the car.
Park demonstrated the proper spray technique. Hold the paint gun perpendicular to the surf
Next, Park sprayed two coats of DuPont 2804s high solids urethane sealer. Sealers perform many functions. They act as a barrier between the new and old paint preventing swelling and lifting, they are also an adhesion promoter, and they make the car a uniform, neutral color. This is important when doing a color change like we are. If our metalwork was superstraight, we could topcoat directly over the sealer without an additional layer of primer. And since paint is semitransparent, painting over a neutral grey background would ensure even color over the whole car.
Next, Park sprayed two coats of DuPont 2804s high solids urethane sealer. Sealers perform

In order to eliminate the appearance of any remaining ripples and waves in our sheetmetal, the students each took a turn at spraying Alsa's APs-22712 urethane primersurfacer. These types of primers, also called buildup primer or filler primer, are meant to be sprayed on in relatively thick coats and sanded flat once they've cured. They level out as they cure, filling sand scratches and small nicks and dings. The students sprayed the car with two coats of primer using a 2.5 fluid tip in the spray gun. Compared with the technique used to apply the sealer, basecoat, and clearcoat, this is like spraying with a fire hose. Prior to being removed from the paint booth, the car was again sprayed with a light guidecoat, the reddish splotches you see in the photo.
In order to eliminate the appearance of any remaining ripples and waves in our sheetmetal,
After allowing the primer to cure for 24 hours, the students began wet-sanding the primer, doing the whole car with 220-grit sandpaper, and then repeating the process with 400-grit. Here sergio Ortiz shows the proper sanding technique. notice he's using a long sanding block and moving long, broad strokes in an X-shaped pattern. This is to prevent sanding grooves and gouges into the primer.
After allowing the primer to cure for 24 hours, the students began wet-sanding the primer,
If this final step before topcoating sounds like a lot of work, you're right. However, Ferre says this is the most important step in refinishing a car. "It's your last chance to get the car straight before you paint it." To get it right, sand until the guidecoat is gone, constantly checking your progress as you go. When you get to the point where you just start to see the layer underneath the primer (in this case, the gray sealer), you're done.
If this final step before topcoating sounds like a lot of work, you're right. However, Fer

Block-sanded and ready to go, the car was rolled back into the spray booth and masked up again for its color coat. We chose Competition Orange, a '70 Mercury color, hoping it would really jump off our cover. We mixed the color using the tints at the school. The paint is mixed by weight-the formula listed by grams.
Block-sanded and ready to go, the car was rolled back into the spray booth and masked up a
In the booth, second year student Omar Benitez mixed the paint and laid down a solid coat of orange. After the color cures we are going to mask off some shelby stripes and paint them in Wimbledon White, following that up with three layers of Dupont 2400s Clearcoat.
In the booth, second year student Omar Benitez mixed the paint and laid down a solid coat

PAINT AND SUPPLIES PRICE LIST
DESCRIPTION	PN	SOURCE	PRICE
21-in. flexible sander	31144	Eastwood	$71.99
15-in. flexible sander	31143	Eastwood	62.99
6-in. flexible palm sander	31171	Eastwood	13.49
Durablock 6-piece sanding block kit	31160	Eastwood	53.99
Rhynolox 6-in. sanding discs 100-pack 80-grit	31357	Eastwood	25.99
Rhynolox 6-in. sanding discs 100-pack 120-grit	19616	Eastwood	23.39
Indasa 23/4-in. 80-grit paper 27.3-yd. roll	31375	Eastwood	17.99
Indasa 23/4-in. 120-grit paper 27.3-yd. roll	31374	Eastwood	17.99
Rust Encapsulator 1 qt.	16065	Eastwood	29.69
Evercoat Rage Xtreme body filler 1 gal.	31332ZP	Eastwood	40.99
Evercoat metal glaze 30-oz. bottle	31279Z	Eastwood	31.99
Masking paper 18-in.-wide 475-ft. roll	11275	Eastwood	29.99
Masking tape 1 1/2 in. 4 rolls	HY-815112	Top Guns	3.58/roll
Masking tape 3/4 in. 4 rolls	AME-PG27-3/4	Top Guns	2.41/roll
V2970S DTM epoxy primer	N/A	Meza	39.16
2804S urethane sealer 2 qt.	N/A	Meza	35.00/qt.
APS-22712 primer surfacer 1 gal.	N/A	Alsa	93.50
Basemaker 1 gal.	N/A	Meza	48.88
2400S Clear 1 gal.	N/A	Meza	128.27

About Trade Tech
Los Angeles Trade Technical College first opened in 1925 and is the oldest public, two-year college in the Los Angeles Community College District. Located on a 25-acre campus two miles south of downtown Los Angeles, it offers instruction in almost 90 occupational programs including welding, automotive technology, automotive collision repair and refinishing, motorcycle repair, and industrial welding. Check them out on the Web at lattc.edu.

SOURCES
DuPont Performance Coatings	The Alsa Corp Vernon CA
Goodmark Industries, Inc.	The Eastwood Company 263 Shoemaker Rd. Pottstown PA 19464 800-345-1178 www.eastwoodcompany.com
Los Angeles Trade Technical College Los Angeles CA	Top Guns Auto Paint and supply Inc. Gardena CA
Meza Autobody supplies Los Angeles CA	Year One PO Box 129 Tucker GA 30085 800-932-7663 770-496-1949 www.nextgenparts.com/mustang