Before getting under the car, we removed the shifter knob and the locknut from the shift handle. Underneath, we removed the driveshaft and plugged the open tailshaft with an old slip yoke to avoid dripping gear lube down our sleeve. If you're not sure about the shifter-linkage layout, shoot a digital picture of the rods and pads layout and then remove the shifter. In our case, the Hurst shifter unfastens with two bolts and the three nuts that retain the shift pads on the side of the trans. | 
We removed the crossmember bolts at the frame on both sides as well as the two transmission-mount bolts, then used a jack to lift the trans enough to unload the weight off the crossmember so it could be removed. We also had to unbolt the exhaust to create enough room to remove the crossmember. We used a 31/44-inch socket, a long extension, and a 11/42-inch drive ratchet to remove the four trans bolts. Now you can pull the transmission and lay it aside. | 
There are six bellhousing bolts on a small-block Chevy, and those at the top can be difficult to access. First, we unhooked the clutch linkage from the fork. We used a 91/416-inch swivel socket on a long extension to remove the bolts, then pulled the bellhousing. |
Most pressure plates are attached to the flywheel with six bolts. Loosen all six bolts, remove the bottom five, and use your free hand to hold the pressure plate and clutch in place until you can remove the last bolt. | 
If you have one of those nice flywheel-turning tools (Year One has 'em), use it to hold the engine while loosening the flywheel bolts. We didn't have one, so we just used a large screwdriver. Then you can remove the flywheel. Do this even if you are reusing the flywheel. | 
If the pilot bushing is stuck in the crank, try shoving chassis grease in behind the bushing and hammering on a dummy input shaft to push the bushing out. If that doesn't work, you can always carefully chisel it in half to get it out. |
We chose this new Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch, pressure plate, and steel flywheel system for our four-speed Chevelle. The Dual-Friction disc offers outstanding holding power when combined with the centrifugal assist of the weights on the diaphragm pressure-plate spring. If you plan on reusing the original flywheel, the new clutch requires a fresh friction face, which means the flywheel needs to be resurfaced. | 
Anytime you handle the clutch disc, pressure plate, or flywheel, make sure you keep the friction surfaces grease-free. Be sure to clean the friction surface of the flywheel and pressure plate to remove the antirust treatment. Also test the clutch disc over the input shaft splines to make sure it will slide freely. | 
We decided to use all new fasteners, including new ARP flywheel bolts. Never use star or lock washers under a flywheel or pressure-plate bolt. To ensure that the bolts remain tight, use the green Loctite or other thread-locker chemical and make sure the threads are clean. Torque the flywheel bolts to the factory spec and install the new pilot bushing. |