Chevy Vent Window Replacement - Vent-Wing Reseal

'New-car manufacturers spend a lot of engineering resources minimizing what they term NVH, which stands for noise, vibration, and harshness. One component of the noise factor is the wind whistling through cracks in the seals around the doors and windows. The musclecars of the '60s are famous as wind-whistle generators, and much of that noise emanates from those quirky vent windows prevalent in most '60s cars up until 1968 when, on most GM cars (except El Caminos, for example), the vent wing disappeared.

For those of us who accepted these rolling wind chimes as part of the charm of a '60s musclecar, there are some solutions that can minimize that extra noise pollution. The best answer is a loud exhaust system. That does wonders for masking most annoying sounds, but assuming you've already done that, the next best fix is to take the plunge and rebuild those dried, cracked, and broken vent-wing seals. We attacked a couple of vent wings that had seen better days on an abused '66 Chevelle that we are slowly resurrecting from the dead. The process is similar for other cars as well. The easiest part of this whole deal was ordering the new parts from Original Parts Group (OPG). We could have even replaced the glass itself if necessary, but our green-tinted pieces survived in decent shape so we reused the originals. If this looks like more work than you want to take on or your barn find is missing its vent windows, OPG also sells complete assemblies ready to bolt in place. Once we had our new replacement pieces on the workbench, we decided to disassemble one side at a time so we could check our work if we got confused. The entire job took a little over two and a half hours, and now we have one more system rebuilt on our way to a fully resto-modded Chevelle.

Removing the original vent-window assembly from a coupe like this '66 Chevelle is relatively easy. You must first remove the armrest, window crank, inside door handle, and then the door panel. This will allow access to the vent-window lower mount. Then all that's left is the bolt at the leading edge of the chrome window frame, the small nut at the bottom of the door, and the long sheetmetal screw that passes through the inner door shell. With these three attachment points removed, the assembly will twist right out. You don't have to remove the window.

PARTS LIST
All the following part numbers are for '64-'67 Chevelles only, and some are only for '66 and '67. Similar parts are available for other year Chevelles as well.
DESCRIPTION	PN	SOURCE	PRICE
Vent-window frame, right	CH26802	OPG	$91.95
Vent-window frame, left	CH26803	OPG	91.95
Vent weatherstrip	VWW2501	OPG	65.95
Door weatherstrip	AMS5007	OPG	60.95
Vertical glass channel	GRC0018	OPG	20.45
Vent-window handle	CHV4350	OPG	38.95
Glass vent-window assembly, left	CH26707	OPG	299.95
Glass vent-window assembly, right	CH26708	OPG	299.95
Glass, vent-window, right	CH240366	OPG	89.95
Glass, vent-window, left	CH240368	OPG	89.95

We laid the first unit on the bench and started by cleaning all the dirt and grime, followed by removing the small upper Phillips-head screw located at the very top of the door-glass run channel. We then removed the long door-glass seal.
We laid the first unit on the bench and started by cleaning all the dirt and grime, follow
Next, we removed the two larger Phillips-head screws at the base of the window frame. This allows you to carefully separate the heavy chrome window frame from the lighter, stamped portion of the frame. But before you can remove the vent window, you must remove the nut from the bottom stud.
Next, we removed the two larger Phillips-head screws at the base of the window frame. This
We used a small hammer and chisel to bend the locking tab away from the nut. Bend the tab out only far enough to allow access to the nut with a 71/416-inch socket. Hit the nut with some penetrating oil to help with disassembly.
We used a small hammer and chisel to bend the locking tab away from the nut. Bend the tab

After the nut is removed, this is how the separate pieces are installed. Arrow 1 points to the fiber washer that prevents wear on the U-shaped tab riveted to the bottom of the window frame. Arrow 2 points to the second fiber washer on the top side of the bracket. Pulling the stud out of the frame will release all the washers. We placed all our small parts in a plastic cup to prevent items from getting up and walking away.
After the nut is removed, this is how the separate pieces are installed. Arrow 1 points to
The original rubber vent-window seal was very brittle and broke into several pieces when we removed it from the heavy chrome window frame. If you are going to reuse the chrome frame, this is a good time to get out the metal polish. Ours was so heavily pitted that it required new pieces from OPG.
The original rubber vent-window seal was very brittle and broke into several pieces when w
Next, we used a small flat-blade screwdriver to pry up the tabs on the short vertical seal to remove it from the vertical metal frame. Pay attention to where this seal is attached to the frame. The wide portion faces the inside of the frame. You can identify the frame's interior side by the raised portion on the stainless steel trim that rubs against the vent handle.
Next, we used a small flat-blade screwdriver to pry up the tabs on the short vertical seal

We decided to clean the metal portion of the frame in our blasting cabinet, so we used the plastic from the new chrome window frame as a mask for both the blasting and painting. The metal is galvanized, so it cleaned very quickly. Then we sprayed it with semigloss black paint for a professional look.
We decided to clean the metal portion of the frame in our blasting cabinet, so we used the
There are specific left- and right-side vent seals, so match up the new seal with the old one to ensure that you are installing the correct side.
There are specific left- and right-side vent seals, so match up the new seal with the old
Before we began the first assembly, we laid down some soft towels to avoid scratching the new chrome piece. We also learned it was easier to use a tiny pin punch to remove and install the new handle before reassembling the vent into the frame.
Before we began the first assembly, we laid down some soft towels to avoid scratching the

With the new rubber pushed into the main chrome frame and into the horizontal portion of the tin frame, we installed the short-length vertical seal in the upright portion of the light metal frame by lining up the small metal tabs with the holes in the frame. Be sure to position the seal on the window side of the frame with the wider portion of the seal facing the interior. Now bend the tabs over with a flat screwdriver blade to secure the seal. Note how the tabs fit into those small recesses. There are actually four different ways this seal can fit, but only one way is correct. Ask us how we know . . .
With the new rubber pushed into the main chrome frame and into the horizontal portion of t
Don't forget to place the small metal washer and then the fiber washer on the upper portion of that U-shaped bracket. This is followed by the second fiber washer and second metal washer, which seats the spring, followed by the locking tab and the nut. Just lightly tighten the nut at this time.
Don't forget to place the small metal washer and then the fiber washer on the upper portio
We began the final assembly by attaching the large chrome frame to the vertical upright with the two large Phillips-head screws. We placed the vent-window upper pivot pin in the chrome frame while carefully pulling the chrome frame up to meet the vertical metal frame. Bring the two frame halves together and attach them with the small Phillips-head screw at the top. As you can see here, there may be misalignment that will require some muscle to start that small screw. Once the small screw is in place securely (don't fully tighten it just yet), you can fasten the two larger screws at the bottom.
We began the final assembly by attaching the large chrome frame to the vertical upright wi

We then set the door-glass window channel seal into the long vertical upright channel and removed the small Phillips-head screw long enough to put the top portion of the door-glass channel seal into place and reinstall the screw. The final step is to adjust the amount of preload on the vent window by tightening the small nut. Place just enough torque on the nut to keep the vent window open at freeway speed. Then bend the locking tab in place and you're done.
We then set the door-glass window channel seal into the long vertical upright channel and
With both vent windows restored, they are ready to bolt back into the door-as soon as we cut out and repair all that Midwest rust that's been slowly devouring our A-body for the last 40 years.
With both vent windows restored, they are ready to bolt back into the door-as soon as we c