How to Repair Quarter - Panels On Any Car

Using a flange tool from Eastwood, the new skins were flanged with a 11/416-inch recess so they would sit flush with the old panels. This step cuts down on the amount of filler used and makes for a nicer repair. The tool also features a hole punch, which was used around the wheel openings and the lower quarter-panel lip to re-create the factory spot welds.

Ramsey aligned the new panel from the front first, sliding the flange under the old panel and in between the front doorjamb panel. This helps position the new skin and hold it in place.

With the wheel lip clamped in place, the spot welds were re-created using the holes punched by the flange tool and the MIG welder. After the tack welds were made, the panel was stitch-welded. This was done in sections so the panels wouldn't warp under from the heat.

After the welds were ground smooth, the surface of the new repair was hit with a high-speed sander and a 36-grit pad to prep the metal for filler.

We laid down a heavy coat of Dura-glass, a waterproof fiberglass-reinforced body filler. This seals any pinholes in the welds and makes for a strong bond. The Dura-glass will also flex more than regular body filler, making it last longer on a large repair like this.

Once cured, the Dura-glass was roughed out with a DA sander and some 36-grit paper; the entire repair was then given a layer of body filler. A DA sander starts the process of smoothing the body filler.

Ramsey then moved to the board sander and increasingly finer grits of paper. The board sander keeps the filler level and smooth across a larger area, eliminating waves in the panel. Hand-blocking the entire panel with 220-grit finished off the repair. The entire surface was sanded to feather the filler out to the old paint.

Once the car was cleaned up with some lacquer thinner, Ramsey mixed up some Rubber Seal epoxy primer and sprayed the panels. Notice how the body filler soaked up the primer. This coating needed about 15 minutes to cure. He should be wearing a safety respirator.

While the epoxy was curing, Ramsey mixed up a batch of Rubber Seal's primer-surfacer. This primer gives the car a solid surface to paint and protects the panels until we are ready to paint the whole car after it cures for 48 hours. As soon as the rest of the car is complete, a new paint job will be in order.