This Old Housenot! All thats needed to set toe and camber is a 2x4 board with a slightly angled nail driven into one end, a tape measure, and a carpenters level. The board performs two functions: It acts as a base for the level and (with the nail) also serves as a scribe.
The 2x4 must fit snugly between the wheels inner rim lips. Measure the maximum width between the lips (17-3/4 inches here) and saw the board to match.
Check the camber first. Place the cut-to-length board in place between the wheel lips, and hold the level against the board as shown.
Zero camber will get the car safely to the alignment shop without tire wear. You have zero camber when the levels bubble is, well
level (centered between the marks).
On most traditional American cars with upper and lower A-arms, camber (as well as caster) adjustments are made with shims inserted between the upper-control-arm shaft and the frame bracket. On a newly built suspension, start with two 1/8-inch shims per side. For cars that dont use shims, check a service manual to determine how to make the adjustments.
Add or subtract shims equally to change camber. If the pivot shaft is inboard of the frame as shown here, subtracting shims moves the tire outboard (positive camber). The reverse is true if the pivot shaft is outboard of the frame.
Before setting toe, make sure each sides inner-to-outer tie-rod assembly length is the same. The inner and outer tie-rod zerk fittings are a handy reference point for taking measurements. Turn the adjusting sleeves as needed to equalize the lengths.
Jack the front end off the ground. Position the 2x4 so the nail contacts the center of a front tire, then rotate the tire until the nail scribes a line around its entire circumference. Repeat for the other front tire. Lower the car to the ground. Make sure the wheels are facing straight ahead and the steering wheel is centered.
Measure the distance between the scribe lines at the front of the tires and at the rear (have a friend hold one end of the tape measure). To minimize tire wear and add stability, shoot for 1/16-inch toe-in (the front measurement should be 1/16-inch less than the rear).
Change toe by loosening the tie-rod-sleeve nuts and rotating the sleeves. Lengthen or shorten each tie-rod assembly equally to keep the steering wheel centered. When the tie rods mount behind the steering knuckle (as on this first-generation Camaro), increasing their length increases toe-in. When the tie rods mount in front of the knuckle, decreasing their length increases toe-in.
Have you just completely rebuilt your front suspension? Or maybe your frame-off, ground-up rebuild is finally ready to come off the jackstands and put rubber to the pavement. Either way, setting the correct wheel and tire alignment is critical for vehicle safety and preventing premature tire wear. An accurate wheel alignment requires special equipment and a skilled technician who knows how to use itbut you have to get the car there in the first place! Is there a way for the average car crafter to rough-in a newly built suspensions alignment so the car can be driven safely to an alignment shop for the real deal?
Yes there is, according to premier suspension expert Doug Nordin, owner of Global West Suspension Components, hard-core manufacturers of go-fast handling and drag racing chassis parts. Nordin came up with this simple technique for setting camber and toe with tools found in virtually any household. Caster requires special equipment, but its not a major tire-wear factor. The car may still pull to one side if the caster is wrong, but at least youll make it to the alignment shop in one piece.