Based on our research, there were lots of folks who said, "Oh, yeah, I made that mistake," which means you need to know about this situation.
The photos show the stock proportioning valve being replaced with a manual Wilwood proportioning valve, and the heat-damaged rear Wilwood solid discs and pads being replaced by Wheel to Wheel Powertrain (W2W) in Madison Heights, Michigan.
As a side note, this vehicle went from being almost completely unpushable to totally free, which told us everything we needed to know. It has gone faster than ever before at the dragstrip, and the manual proportioning valve has allowed the owner to tune the brake bias to provide maximum stopping performance.
Though this vehicle was repaired while up on a four-point lift to allow photography, the work can be performed on floor jacks-just be prepared to work in some very tight areas, as the brake system is usually buried under a lot of parts (exhaust, drivetrain, and so on). | 
As a result of the brake system dragging, the rear Wilwood rotors were trashed after just 1,500 miles. They will be replaced in this story along with the brake pads. |
This fix was started by unbolting the stock proportioning valve from the frame and hard brake lines. Use flare-nut wrenches on the fittings to minimize the chances of stripping the nuts as you work to loosen them. | 
W2W reworked the brake system on this vehicle. The installer positioned the Wilwood manual proportioning valve on the framerail with the adjuster dial just below the framerail and marked the framerail for where to drill the two mounting holes. |
Two oversized holes were drilled in the framerail so that nutserts (which are similar to rivets) could be installed to allow two bolts to be threaded into them. Installing nutserts requires a special tool, but they are really great for blind installations such as this where you can't reach the backside of the fasteners being used for mounting a component. | 
Once the Wilwood prop valve was mounted, the techs at W2W got to work creating new hard lines to attach the rear brake line from the master cylinder and the factory line coming from the rear of the vehicle. |