How To Install An Aftermarket Shifter

The decision to ditch the four-speed in our '68 Barracuda wasn't easy. After all, the car originally came equipped with it, and four-speeds are manly and just plain fun. But continued problems with clutch linkage, a high-rpm small-block with serious horsepower and torque, and some issues with consistent performance pushed us into the realm of fluid coupling. It was time to equip the 'Cuda with a slush box. For a car already equipped with an automatic transmission, the switch to an aftermarket performance shifter provides a measure of reliability not normally associated with stock production shifters. With reliability comes repeatability, and a good performance shifter offers positive gear changes. Having used B&M's venerable Pro Stick in projects over the years, we decided this was a good choice for the Barracuda.

The Pro Stick is a gated automatic shifter designed for use with most popular three-speed automatic transmissions. It features a billet stick, removable gate plate, and an NHRA-mandated reverse lockout that can be operated one-handed. To run this shifter on a Powerglide, a reverse-pattern three-speed, or a four-speed automatic transmission, a matching gate plate must be used. All are available from B&M, many in kit form. Installation was simple and took a few hours with basic tools.

The shifter comes with all necessary hardware...
...including a 5-foot Super Duty shifter cable, a neutral safety/backup-light switch (note: we did not need the provided neutral safety switch because our transmission already has one), a brushed aluminum housing, and comprehensive instructions addressing most possible applications.
...including a 5-foot Super Duty shifter cable, a neutral safety/backup-light switch (note
Various gate plates are available to accommodate different shift patterns. We ordered a reverse-pattern-specific shifter gate...
Various gate plates are available to accommodate different shift patterns. We ordered a re

...and a shifter ball with a built-in switch so we can operate our line lock and two-step limiter.
...and a shifter ball with a built-in switch so we can operate our line lock and two-step
Removing the manual-trans shifter left a gaping hole in the trans tunnel that we had to cover.
Removing the manual-trans shifter left a gaping hole in the trans tunnel that we had to co
We cut a piece of aluminum to the approximate size of the hole. Using the manual-trans shifter bezel as a template, we trimmed the piece with a pair of tin snips and pop-riveted it in place.
We cut a piece of aluminum to the approximate size of the hole. Using the manual-trans shi

Next, we set the shifter mechanism in place and marked where we wanted to mount it. It is best to sit in the driver seat to position the shifter, which should be well within reach to make driving easier and safer.
Next, we set the shifter mechanism in place and marked where we wanted to mount it. It is
The four mounting holes were marked and drilled, and the shifter was bolted in place with the provided hardware.
The four mounting holes were marked and drilled, and the shifter was bolted in place with
B&M specifies cutting a 1-inch hole for the shifter cable. We used a 1-inch hole-saw to make the hole, making sure it was far enough forward of the shifter to avoid kinking and binding. Routing the cable to the trans is probably the most critical step--be careful to keep it well away from the headers, which can quickly claim the life of the cable. We used zip ties prodigiously.
B&M specifies cutting a 1-inch hole for the shifter cable. We used a 1-inch hole-saw to ma